Author Topic: THANKS EVERYONE!!!!! MY 36. COLT NAVY IS FOR REAL!!!!!!!!!!! (Read 1099 times)

adkmountainken · « **on:** January 03, 2005, 05:27:00 AM »

just wanted to thank everyone who gave me info on what to look for on a real Colt. went to the gun shop today and looked it over real good.
1) there are serial #'s on the bottom of barrel lug, frame, and trigger guard.

2)it also has Colts patent on the right side of the frame in 2 lines.
3) on the top of the barrel is "address saml colt new-york city

4)it DOSEN'T have the Sam Colt scrawl on the back strap.
5) it does have the silver back strap with square back trigger guard.

Now how do i tell if it is a "F" or "C" series? i talked the owmner down to $200. he told me he just picked it up and has trouble moving anything that is not inline these days. i have know the man for along while and have done many deals with him. he is an honest guy. i think i did good?
Now i have a bunch of newbie questions! one being how do i get the cyclander to swing to the side? you will have to bear with me as this is my first cap & ball. thanks again everyone!!!!!!!!!
Ken

filmokentucky · « **Reply #1 on:** January 03, 2005, 05:55:23 AM »

Ken- It is difficult to tell from photographs, but Colt used two different types of bluing on these guns. The "C" series used a so-called Royal blue
that is bluer than the more modern blackish blue used on "F" series guns. From the serial number, it appears to be a "C" series. Either way, you did very well as they usually run well over twice what you paid for a gun in nice shape. Did you get the box with the gun?
To remove the cylinder, you have to tap the barrel wedge to the left using a plastic mallet or the handle of a screwdriver. Something soft in any case. Do not remove the wedge retaining screw. Pull the wedge out until it stops against the screw. Place the hammer on half cock-this puts the web between two chambers directly under the rammer head. Now pull
down firmly on the rammer. This will force the barrel off of the cylinder arbor and, leaving the hammer on half cock so you don't scratch the cylinder on the bolt, you can now slide the cylinder off. Have fun---you did real good!

adkmountainken · « **Reply #2 on:** January 03, 2005, 06:04:54 AM »

Filmokentucky,
thank you very much for the help. cyclinder came out easy. if i emailed you the serail # could you tell what series it is? thanks again, i owe ya one!!
Ken

simonkenton · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2005, 06:51:44 AM »

Congrats! You are lucky, and smart!
Want to trade for a real nice Pietta?

filmokentucky · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2005, 07:10:43 AM »

Ken- from the photo you have serial number 17xxx. That would make your gun a "C" series. I have two of these. They are great shooters and to
my eye have a nicer finish than the later "F" series guns. If you have the box and it is brown or a sort of light tan then it is for sure a "C". "F"s came in black boxes and are often referred to as Black Box guns. Pretty
sure yours is a "C" though, unless I am mis-reading that serial number.

adkmountainken · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2005, 08:23:13 AM »

Filmokentucky,
you are correct. it is a 5 digit serial number starting 17xxx. i am very new to cap & ball, allways wanted a 36. Navy as that was what Wild Bill carried. i have been shooting muzzleloaders for 10 years now and love it. what can i expect for accuracy at say 20 yards? could you reccomend a good starting load for me? will it foul as quick as a 36 cal rifle? i have shot 32. and 36. rifles alot and i know that they foul quickly due to the small bore. i ran dry every shot and a wet and dry every 2 shots when time allowed as i was usally hunting small game more than shooting at the range. could you give me a brief history of the pistol or direct me to a good source for the 1851 navies? also i was givin a holster with it but it looks like a wild west holster. what would be correct for this piece? i inted on shooting at the range and hunting small game. please let me know what you think. thanks,
Ken

Flint · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2005, 09:32:39 AM »

Yes, you did good. Someone said twice the value, but it's more like four times, as that is a 2nd generation gun, all parts by Uberti, not a mixed bag, and it was finished and assembled by Iver Johnson with a fine degree of workmanship.

Check GunsAmerica to see what the going price is for the 2nd gen, you will see how well you did.

The 3rd gen has the Sam Colt Signature, and compared to what you got, they are junk. Assembled by a company in Brooklyn, from parts by several vendors, ill fit and finished. The only nice thing about the 3rd gen is the color case hardening.

Suggest a 380 diameter ball over a Wonder Wad and 20 to 24 gr of fffg GOEX. You might want to replace the nipples with TRESO, and use Remington #10 caps. Look at these websites for nipples and balls, etc. http://www.ozonemountain.com/catalog1.htm and http://thunder-ridge-muzzleloading.com/.

These guns shoot high, like 9 inchaes at 15 yards. If you don't want to install a new higher front sight, you'll have to learn where to hold for your point of impact.

You got what is probably the finest repro cap & ball ever made, and at a price to make a grown man jump up and down and sing.

filmokentucky · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2005, 11:42:24 AM »

The main thing is to be sure the ball is seated firmly on the powder--you don't want any air space between the ball and the charge. A little non-petroleum based lube (this time of year Crisco should be fine) smeared on top of the loaded ball will keep fouling soft. Make sure the caps are firmly seated on the cones to prevent flash over and chain fires. As you cock for the next shot, raise the muzzle so that any cap fragments will fall out of the frame--there is a groove for this purpose on the upper right recoil shield. If you use a two hand hold, keep both hands behind the cylinder as you would with any revolver. Not only to avoid burns from the cylinder gap but also more serious damage in the event of a chain fire.
When you reassemble the revolver, you don't want the cylinder gap so tight that the cylinder drags on the rear of the barrel. You may have to try different ball diameters to get the best accuracy, but usually these Colts like the .380s best. I use 25 grains of fffg GOEX by volume and hold low to hit center at 25 yards. As they say, your results may vary. Part of the fun of these Victorian firearms is learning their likes and dislikes. And remember-- we are supposed to be having fun here.