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Offline thelaw

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teflon coating question?
« on: January 04, 2005, 04:57:15 AM »
i'm considering getting my rem. 700 .270 teflon coated. the barrel has some scratches and the blueing is worn. i'm curious about the procedure though. from what i've been told, the finishing process is done by baking the coated rifle parts around 350 for 30 minutes. does the heat in any way harm the function of the parts afterwards?the barrel, receiver and bolt will be coated.
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Offline thelaw

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teflon coating question?
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2005, 05:14:09 AM »
just noticed the Gun-Kote product at Brownell's site. this seems to be a baking process as well. from reading about the product, it seems this something you can do yourself at home, with the proper set-up, am i right? anyone ever used this product? it sound like it may be better than teflon coating. any advice?
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Offline MI VHNTR

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teflon coating question?
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2005, 05:04:20 PM »
Take a look at DuraCoat. There is no baking required with it.
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/
I've had good luck with it. Brownell's and Midway both sell it.  MI VHNTR
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Offline gunnut69

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teflon coating question?
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2005, 10:06:21 PM »
I've used baking lacquer for years as a replacement coating for worn adonized parts.  I've also done a bit of powder coating on firearms.  I usually remove the internals as some of the lighter wire springs may be damaged but the strength of the weapons won't be compromised.  Most of the teflon processes seem to be a powder paint material with the teflon as an ingrediant. Powder coatings are quite tough and while not impervious to wear or at least very resistant.  I don't know about the coating of the bolt as the pressure of the bolt being worked may damage it..  but I don't know that for sure as I hove not directly used the stuff.  Let us know how it works out if you decide to go ahead...
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Offline unclenick

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teflon coating question?
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2005, 07:30:58 AM »
Heat treating steel increases its tensile strength.  Rifle barrels can't be made too hard, or they will be too brittle to handle high pressures safely, so they are usually drawn back to a Rockwell C scale hardness of about 30.  This means that after hardening (heat 4140 to about 1575°F and quench) they are tempered (reheated and heat soak about 1 hour per inch of thickness) at about 1100°F.  So, no heat you apply that is much below 1100° is going to have an adverse effect on their hardness.  Silver brazing gets to around this temperature, so it must be applied judiciously with chills protecting critical places, but soft solder (500° range) won't bother it.

There are indeed lots of finishes out there.  The Brownells finishes work.  If you are setup for Parkerizing, you might also look at the Ten-ring Precision finishes (tenring.com).  These finishes and the Brownells finishes may be applied without first applying zinc Parkerizing as a porous surface prep, but they will not be nearly as hardy.

Nick
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