Author Topic: Questions About The Ruger Old Army (Read 1062 times)

VTDW · « **on:** January 09, 2005, 01:48:26 PM »

I have wanted a revolver to carry with my 444S when hog hunting and I just picked up a well worn (mostly by holster) but tight Ruger Old Army .44 at a great price and have a few questions.

The serial # indicates that the gun was sold in 1974. The bore measures .451. What round balls and/or projectiles/powder should I purchase?

I would like to purchase one of the drop in cylinders to also shoot regular cartridges. If I purchase or locate one of the drop ins does that mean that the gun will then shoot .45 cal? If so, what cartridge do you recommend? What do I need to look out for?

Thanks folks,

Dave

Old No7 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 09, 2005, 03:10:54 PM »

Congrats on the good deal.

The ROA uses .457" round balls. You can range from 20 gr to 45+ grains of powder, based on your needs for accuracy, recoil -- and smoke! I've tried most of the conicals in mine and always found the RB the best. By the time you ram it and the powder ignites, it's not really "round" anymore anyhow. Mine shoots best with Pyrodex, and I can shoot 12+ cylinders without any binding of the cylinder pin. With real black powder, 1 - 2 cylinders is all I get before she needs to be stripped and cleaned.

By the way, the RB -- IF placed right -- will kill a bore "eventually", but it wouldn't be a quick stop like you probably want with those nasty critters. I wouldn't do it unless it was all I had and it was charging me. If it was running away, I'd probably let it go rather than risk wounding it -- or worse yet -- making 'em mad!

As for the drop-in centerfire cylinder, due to the bore size, I believe that .45 Colt is the only caliber. I think an outfit named "RD" makes them? Do a search for Old Army on this site and you can learn more about these outstanding firearms.

Tight groups.

Old No7

Chris · « **Reply #2 on:** January 09, 2005, 03:41:36 PM »

VTDW:

This should help...Ruger's Old Army manual (40 pages), from thier website. Download it, read it, then have some fun!

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/SE-InstructManualsR.html

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/13.pdf

...Chris

Chris · « **Reply #3 on:** January 09, 2005, 03:43:28 PM »

VTDW:

This should help...Ruger's Old Army manual (40 pages), from thier website. Download it, read it, then have some fun!

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/SE-InstructManualsR.html

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/13.pdf

...Chris

ed1921 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 09, 2005, 05:36:20 PM »

Check the thread "kirst or r&d" two topics down.
I have a R&D cylinder that works fine. Maker says to use cowboy ammo.

VTDW · « **Reply #5 on:** January 14, 2005, 11:22:13 PM »

Thanks for the replies and links folks. Good stuff.

Dave

Flint · « **Reply #6 on:** January 15, 2005, 02:34:36 PM »

TM7, the diameter of the round ball for the cap &* ball ROA cylinder is designed to get a tight seal when loading, and a good swage in the forcing cone when fired. The Ruger bore is 451, and a standard 452 lead load is correct for the bore. If you loaded a 457 bullet in a 45 colt case, it most likely wouldn't even chamber (thank goodness).

Incidently, Uberti and Pietta cap&ball revolvers work fine, and even better with 457 balls, and should use 454 balls at the smallest.

Flint · « **Reply #7 on:** January 16, 2005, 08:08:53 AM »

Piettas often need a 451 ball, the Ubertis do better with 454. In either case, the biggest ball you can use without damaging the loading lever works best. The weak link (pardon the pun) on the Remington is the loading lever link, as it is pretty thin and has small pivots.