Author Topic: 25/35 reloaders (Read 348 times)

Flash · « **on:** January 14, 2005, 08:37:27 AM »

Anyone shoot this round? I came upon a Savage 219 that was rechambered from a 25-20 to 25-35. The gun was priced right and will be a cast bullet gun so I haven't any pressure worries. How about forming brass from 30-30? Anyone with success or disaster stories to share??

ajj · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2005, 09:46:56 AM »

No direct experience but I've wanted to do a conversion like this for a long time. The data I've seen refers to the same powders used in the 30-30 for similar bullets. I've actually bought new brass, for when I get around to the conversion, from Blue Star Cartridge and Brass in Searcy, AR. Google them up. I bet they still have plenty.

Flash · « **Reply #2 on:** January 14, 2005, 10:14:39 AM »

Hmmmm, just left their site and they don't list it any longer. I ordered the dies today from Mid South and should have them by Tuesday. I'll just have to form the brass mmyself from 30-30 cases. I checked the dimensions and the length is the same for both rounds. I can't wait to see how this thing shoots. I love those old calibers!!

Lone Star · « **Reply #3 on:** January 14, 2005, 03:16:59 PM »

I shot a .25-35 TC in IHMSA competition for years, several 40x40s too so the accuracy is there. I made up cases from .30-30 brass, but it was a hassle. Use NEW brass only, and push the lubed case about 3/4" short of fully into the die. Set the cases in a pan of water and use a propane torch to anneal the mouths and shoulders ONLY. Then push the lubed case about 1/2" from bottom, pull out, wipe off lube, relube lightly and try again. I had about 15% case loss due to bad lube dents. Dents in the neck and shoulder will show up as cracks in 2-5 reloadings. But the cases which came out okay last forever.

Leftoverdj · « **Reply #4 on:** January 14, 2005, 03:51:07 PM »

I make .25-35 cases as an intermediary step to .25-35 Imp. I've never sued anything but once fired .30-30 cases and never had any trouble getting them to .25-35. I do anneal. mostly because of splits fireforming. My technique is a little different. I hold the rim in my fingers and rotate while holding the shoulder in the flame. When the color line moves a third the way down the case, I drop it in a bucket of water. Can't get the head hot enough to hurt it without burning my fingers.

You can avoid lube dents by using the Lee lube and letting it dry before sizing. I've never had any trouble using anhydous lanolin rubbed into my hands. Just roll some cases between your palms and add a few more cases if the first few look greasy. Takes mighty little lanolin to lube the cases.