Author Topic: Jammed Swede Bolt (Read 511 times)

Barrika · « **on:** January 23, 2005, 11:44:16 AM »

:cry: After really enjoying my "new" 1899 Carl Gustav Swede with IRON, sights, I put on a B-square scope ladder-mount & went to try it out again (bad eyes!). To my chagrin, the FIRST round went off quite loudly and the bolt is now JAMMED, HARD! Despite pen oil & such and liberal use of a soft-faced mallet, I cannot get the bolt open more than ~15 degrees!! I HAD used this very round before (100 gr SP bullet, same brass & primer (colder weather NOW, not hotter!), and only 40.2 gr WC846 powder (had used 42.0 gr before). WHAT went wrong? ONLY thing I can think of is some kind of bullet-blocking in the barrel? I looked before the shot: looked fine I thought... Any thoughts on gettung the thing apart, for further troubleshooting? Return it to a gunsmith? I REALLY don't want to retire it!!

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #1 on:** January 23, 2005, 12:49:10 PM »

Have you removed the floor plate and looked underneath the bolt?

Have you tried various positions of the safety?

1911crazy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 23, 2005, 01:03:16 PM »

If the safety is on either after firing or before firing the bolt won't open. BigBill

Barrika · « **Reply #3 on:** January 23, 2005, 02:01:20 PM »

Yes guys, I did strip the gun down completely, and nothing was visible from below, with the stock & trigger assembly removed. Bolt looks good from that angle.

I have tried the safety: it cycles, but no positions release the bolt.

FYI also, the prior,

Barrika · « **Reply #4 on:** January 23, 2005, 02:03:06 PM »

Yes guys, I did strip the gun down completely, and nothing was visible from below, with the stock & trigger assembly removed. Bolt looks good from that angle.

I have tried the safety: it cycles, but no positions release the bolt.

FYI also, the prior, similar load showed NO signs of brass distress, primer failure, bolt stiffness, etc. I;m still stumped!

earschplitinloudenboomer · « **Reply #5 on:** January 23, 2005, 09:09:44 PM »

...not familiar with that particular mount. Does ANYTHING protrude into the reciever, or even worse, chamber (mounting screw hole drilled too deep)? Also insert a cleaning rod from muzzle, compare lenght inserted, to length alongside barrel and chamber, could give you an indication if there is a barrell obstruction. Beyond that, sounds lika a trip to the 'smith.

1911crazy · « **Reply #6 on:** January 24, 2005, 02:11:42 AM »

First make sure the bore is clear by putting a cleaning rod down the bore so it goes as far as enters the empty case. Now open the bolt as far as you can and insert a rod to bang out the empty stuck case and as you bang the rod open the bolt a little at a time too as you go. It should open and the stuck case should come out. The WC846 powder your using is from 308 rounds and where did you get the data for the 6,5 swede mauser your using from? BigBill

jh45gun · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2005, 07:40:30 PM »

Before you do the tapping ect which I agree with Bill I have to ask what is a Bsquare ladder mount??? If it is a mount that required drilling and tapping the reciever are you sure the screws you used were the right length? I just had to ask as I have heard of such happening even with gun shops doing scope work. Any way if that is not the problem read on.

I agree with Bill according to some gunsmithing class manuals I bought at a rummage sale. ( LOTS of GOOD INFO CHEAP on that deal :grin: ) They say to put a rod down the barrel until it hits the case and tap on the rod and then keep trying the bolt alternatly tapping on the bolt and the rod untill she comes loose. The only thing extra they said to do before the rod tapping is to pour some penetrating oil down the bore and let it sit for a hour or so before you start tapping. Jim

Barrika · « **Reply #8 on:** January 25, 2005, 12:41:07 PM »

SUCCESS! After about 5 days of allowing the p-oil & moly-oil blend to soak in, AND using a slightly larger plastic-faced hammer, the bolt SLOWLY yielded to ~20 more hits to open up. THEN I had to hammer the bolt BACK, to get it out. The brass was beat to all heck at the rim: it had flowed outward, and the primer hole was REALLY opened up. It was UGLY. NO sign of bolt or chamber or barrel damage, NOR was there any sign of what might have gone wrong with this load. It can't have been a double powder load: at worst maybe 20% over the nominal 40.2 gr powder, but I'll bet big bucks it was right on the mark. ALL the other loads in that batch were checked: powder right on & brass is all in great shape.

FYI: the scope mount was mounted ON/through the old Swede ladder-sight, with NO receiver drilling, etc: the goal was to keep this gun fully restorable to as-new. Question now is, do I TRUST this gun, w/o knowing what went wrong. I;ll make some weak loads & tie the gun down, with a string to the trigger......

bgjohn · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2005, 12:46:40 PM »

That's GOT to be a bad load. I'd pull those bullets, dump the powder and burn it then start over.
JM

Nightrain52 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2005, 03:18:18 PM »

I agree with Bgjohn. Something wrong somewhere. I think I would have a gunsmith check things over for stretch or stress fractures and see if the headspace is alright.

jh45gun · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2005, 07:49:11 PM »

Out of a box of 20 it only takes one screwed up one. Might not be double charged but it sure was hotter than it should have been! As suggested I would pull them and start over after you have the gun checked out. I would not shoot it until then.