The instructions that come from Brownells are very good. I would add that you need to mask the outside of the stock to protect the finish. It's almost impossible to bed a rifle and not damage the finish unless you mask it off first. I remove pressure lumps from the barrel channel and bed the action first. Oil based(non-hardening) modeling clay will allow you to fill those areas you don't want the bedding compound to go, such as the magazine well, the trigger mortise and the barrel channel. This helps avoid mechanical locks. bed the front receiver ring and a couple of inches of the barrel and the rear tang around the read action screw. A moto tool can be used to remove the wood we're going to replace with bedding compound but chisels work as well albeit a bit slower. Behind the recoil lug remove 3/8 to 1/2 inch of wood to the depth of the lug plus a bit. Relieve the sides and front of the lug also.. The barrel reinforce bedding area, the front tang and the recoil lug are going to be a single piece of bedding material. Use masking tape to cover the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug(on Remingtons). This will allow the action to be easy to remove and not affect the critical fit of the rear of the recoil lug to the bedding. Two layers of masking tape are best and a knife can clear the rear of the recoil lug for a nice fit. I use paste furniture wax as a release agent.. it never fails to release and is easier to use than the material Brownells inludes in the kit. Be certain to use plenty of release agent. Coat everything even where you may not expect bedding to go, it avoids nasty surprises. I would bed the action before continuing. Action screws are not a good idea. Stockmakers hand screws are likely the best idea but I use headless guide screws and surjical tubing to hold the action and stock together. Apply the glass gel to the metal and the relief cuts in the stock. Put the remaining mix down the center of the relief cuts in the stock. This material will be forced up and out as the action seats, eliminating trapped air pockets that leave voids. Mix a little more material than you think necessary, it's a pain to go back a fill voids. A kit will easily do an entire rifle.. The stain included with the glass kit goes a LONG LONG WAY.. The pressure pad can easily be added back after the action bedding is complete. Once the action is bedded correctly you can pour pillars into the stock that will keep your bedding job exactly the same for many many years. Poured pillars are a lot easier than conventional metal sleeves and a lot more precise.. I like the jel material and re-inforce the lug area and the pillars with aluminum powder, also available from Brownells. It adds a bit more impact strength than just the acraglassm, although I've never seen acraglass shatter. Not so some other bedding compounds. Read the instructions several times paying attention to the mixing instructions and times. Get everything ready before mixing as once the material is mixed working time is not overly plentiful. Cleanup the overflow with a plastic chisel made from an old toothbrush as soon as possible. Just after it kicks over but before it fully hardens..the plastic won't harm the metal work but is hard enough to cut the still maleable bedding compound. Are there any questions...I'm sure I missed somethings..but those instructions from Brownells are very thorough..
