Author Topic: Ruger Blackhawk problems (Read 1660 times)

armory414 · « **on:** February 07, 2005, 07:39:02 AM »

Hi guys, I have a .357 Ruger BH that will not cock. I removed the cylinder last night to clean out some powder residue. When I replaced the cylinder in the frame the hammer would only pull back about one fourth of the way, and the cylinder will not rotate. If I remove the cylinder from the frame and close the gate, the hammer will pull back all the way. With the cylinder in the gun, if I open the gate and rotate the cylinder just past the index notch, I can pull the hammer back to full cock and the cylinder will rotate as it should to the next index. But the hammer won't cock/cylinder won't rotate as it should after that. Any suggestions?

Brac2005 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2005, 02:53:41 PM »

I'm definitely not an expert here, but I believe that your base pin is not seated properly. Pull it out and try it again, and make sure that it seats all the way in. You may have to fiddle with it some.

Nobade · « **Reply #2 on:** February 08, 2005, 01:58:26 AM »

Yep, sounds like the base pin isn't pushing the transfer bar back enough to clear the firing pin. If the base pin is seated all the way in, the spring plunger on the end of it might be jammed or there might be crud in the transfer bar preventing it from moving into position.

armory414 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2005, 04:29:10 AM »

I checked both of those, as they were my first thought. The pin/spring at the end of the base pin moves okay, and is seated properly as to push back against the transfer bar, so there is good clearance between the transfer bar and the firing pin. It's starting to look like I'll have to take it apart. It appears that the cylinder latch is not falling properly to release the cylinder, so when the pawl extends to engage the sprocket the cylinder latch at the bottom of the frame is holding it up. I just need to find out what is not engaging the cylinder latch to drop it out of the way of the cylinder.

Iowegan · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2005, 12:30:19 PM »

There is a spring loaded plunger that extends from the base of the hammer (hammer plunger). As you cock the gun, the plunger grabs the cylinder latch and pulls it down. As the hammer continues to be cocked, the plunger cams off of the cylinder latch and allows it to spring back up. When you fire the gun, the hammer plunger strikes the cylinder latch then cams off. If there was crud in the plunger hole, the plunger could get bent, thus preventing it from cocking. See part #30 in the following schematic: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=723&m=13&mn=Ruger%c2%ae&model=Super+Blackhawk+#5

armory414 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2005, 03:44:09 PM »

I took my BH apart tonight. Iowegan was right on the money--except the hammer plunger didn't bend, it sheared right off. I'm ordering a replacement, giving it a good cleaning, and putting her back together. Thanks for the help guys--I think this problem's solved.

Iowegan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2005, 08:44:31 AM »

When your hammer plunger breaks, there is usually a good reason. I've found the plunger holes have burrs or were not drilled quite large enough (probably a worn bit). Before you replace the plunger, use a paper clip or some other tool to get the spring out. Then take a 3/32" drill bit and hand ream the hole. You don't want to drill deeper, just get the burrs and crud out.

Another interesting thing about the hammer plunger is how it controls the timing for the cylinder stop. A slightly longer plunger will cause the cylinder to rotate more before the stop pops up. This will eliminate the drag line in any New Model Ruger. I use the shaft of a 3/32" drill bit to make new plungers. The top is exactly like the factory part. The slot extends .085" farther and the length is .085" longer. Instead of the plunger extending .300" from the hammer, it will extend .385". This makes the cylinder stop pop up at the start of the leade where it should be.

armory414 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2005, 11:32:08 AM »

Thanks for the tip. A gunsmith I know from another forum has some spare parts lying around that he's sending me to do the job. I haven't pulled the spring yet, but I suspect that there is dirt, or else the spring has a nasty kink and wouldn't fully compress. Either way, the plunger broke at its weak spot, where it goes from full round to half round. While I have it apart I may replace the trigger spring with a lighter one from Brownells.