Author Topic: Working on a stock, is it doable? (Read 701 times)

BoneDigger · « **on:** February 18, 2005, 11:24:52 AM »

I was thinking that it would be fairly easy to lightly sand one of these Handi stocks to bare wood, apply a wood stain of your choice, and then apply a varnish. Is this doable, or are there hidden issues that I am not aware of?

Todd

MSP Ret · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2005, 11:28:24 AM »

none that I can think of, they are not fine walnut anyway so whats to lose?....<><.... :-D

BuzzKill · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2005, 12:17:04 PM »

Hey Bone-

I am actually doing this to an Ultra stock. I first used some chemical refinishing products to remove both the polyuerathane and some stain pigment. Both worked good, but I am going to also apply some light sanding to further open the grain and possibly remove additional stain. On the Ultra laminated stocks I have found that the glue or resin that holds the laminated pieces thouroughly saturates through the layers of wood. I hope this does not create an obstacle to completing the project, but I will let you know how it goes. I do not have a standard solid stock, so I don't know what stain/sealer NEF applies on those, but would think that the work should be fairly painless and provide a nice new finish. One note, if your stock has checkering, don't sand over it , but rather get the chemical refinishers to remove as much stain/poly as possible so they are not darker than the rest of the wood. Sanding will easily remove the grip to the checkering. Good Luck. BuzzKill.

Rustyinfla · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2005, 12:22:22 PM »

I used a Birchwood Casey stock refinishing kit once to refinish the stock on an Iver Johnson .30 Carbine. I came out looking beautiful. When I sold it later at a gun show the guy that bought it couldn't stop commenting on the stock. I think I made IIRC $50 in the late 70's on it.
Always use a sanding block!
Rusty <><

mrlizzzard · « **Reply #4 on:** February 18, 2005, 01:12:53 PM »

There is a post here where a person said to sand lightly and prime the stock,then sand lightly again,and then camo or paint it.

The other way is to use paint remover and a sanding belt,then throw it away and order a survivor stock.

lizzzard

Leftoverdj · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2005, 01:53:06 PM »

Refinishing is easy. It's the staining that is the hard part. I use one of the oil finishes and they are easy to control. Getting stain on evenly is an art and I ain't no artist.

There's an old timer's trick that I have been meaning to try. They used strong tea to raise the grain during final sanding. The tea put tannin into light colored wood. When the sanding is done, the stock is suspended on a cardboard box with a saucer of ammonia. Seal the box with tape and leave overnight. The ammonia fumes react with the tannin to darken the wood.

jeff223 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2005, 02:01:53 PM »

all the pallet wood on these fine shooting handi rifles and shotguns get redone at my house.just take some real fine sand paper to cut the gloss finish down then remove the stock and forarm from the barrel and frame.then remove the recoil pad and the plastic end piece on the forarm.then take a can of WALLY WORLD flat black spray paint and flow a couple of nice even coats of flat black on that pallet wood :-D :-D turns out real nice too

if you get some runs just let the paint dry then resand and repaint :-D :-D :-D

ScatterGunner · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2005, 02:56:32 PM »

will the factory sell fully inletted but unfinished stocks ?

sg

turkeyhunter · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2005, 04:20:31 PM »

After you have sanded the stock completely smooth I start with the steel wool all the way down to #0000. Before you stain the wood get some wood conditioner. It is found with the stain at the store. Generally you will put the conditioner on the wood conditioner, wait about 10 minutes, give it another light hit with the steel wool, wipe it good and clean and then stain it. The wood conditioner opens the grains and makes the stain go on nice and evenly. I usually put about 2 coats of stain, let it dry overnight and then apply a couple of coat of satin rub on poly. Make a great durable finish that is almost fool proof. I should know since I am a fool!

riddleofsteel · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2005, 05:11:18 PM »

I have had good luck with Tru oil. Sand to ultra smooth and apply multiple coats.
Here is a Swedish Mauser I refinished the original stock on. It roiginally had multiple nicks, dents, gouges, ect. I cut it off, sanded it down and used progressively finer grades of steel wool until it was smooth. Tru oil was applied with a clean lint free rag.

stuffit · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2005, 01:47:40 PM »

This stock came semi finished (ie formed, inletted, but not smoothed out or finished. I'm not finished with it yet, but the instructions that came with it are doing good. After sanding and deburring and fine sanding, a tung oil finish applied in god knows how many coats, burnished down after each dries with the 0000 steel wool. I think I did maybe 8 - 10. What I've posted here is the first of the three or four final coats of Linspeed stock finish. I intend to buff the final coat with burlap and leave it a sort of satin. Seems like it's bringing the grain out pretty nicely. Here 'tis:

:wink:
stuffit