Author Topic: It won't close! (Read 604 times)

grinch · « **on:** February 27, 2005, 10:42:51 AM »

I just bought a used contender frame sn 151xxx. I have 2 barrels. A 22 k-hornet 10in oct. and a 30/30 10in bull. The k-hornet barrel closes but the 30/30 does not. I have another frame, sn 39xxx that both barrels close on. What is the deal?

:?

Flash · « **Reply #1 on:** February 27, 2005, 11:47:45 AM »

You have to explain "Won't close". There is a oversized cartridge chambered? The pivot pin is binding? The locking lugs are too big? The ejector is bent? You have to provide more details.

bgjohn · « **Reply #2 on:** February 27, 2005, 02:33:16 PM »

It sounds like you need to stone the locking lugs on the barrel that won't latch.
JM :wink:

rickyp · « **Reply #3 on:** February 27, 2005, 04:07:26 PM »

will it close on an empty chamber? or will it not close with a case in the chamber?

grinch · « **Reply #4 on:** February 28, 2005, 09:01:06 AM »

Empty chamber. The 30/30 barrel will not close on the newer frame, but will close on the older frame. The k-hornet barrel will close on both frames. The frames don't appear internally different as far as I can tell by eyeballing them. The 30/30 is hitting solid against the newer frame and does not close. It could be the barrel lugs. The 30/30 lugs appear a little larger than the k-hornet. BUT IT CLOSES ON THE OLDER FRAME! And again, the frames don't appear different internally. One frame is a low 6 digit and the other is a low 5 digit.

:?

RonF · « **Reply #5 on:** February 28, 2005, 10:45:27 AM »

I want you to do a little test:

First, make sure the extractor is NOT protruding past the surface of the barrel lug on the breech when it is pushed all the way in. If it is, it could be your problem. If it is not, then proceed as follows:

1. Put your hornet barrel on the frame NOT giving you a problem and use a feeler gauge to see how much space there is between the barrel and the standing breech. Record the number of thousandths.
2. Put your hornet barrel on the problem frame and do the same thing. Subtract the two numbers. This is how much closer the hinge pin center is to the standing breech on the problem frame.
3. Put the .30-30 barrel on the frame not causing you a problem and measure the space between the barrel and the standing breech. If this number is greater than in 1 above then the lugs are your problem. If it is less than the number in 1, then subtract it from the number in 1. The result is how much longer your .30-30 barrel is from hinge pin to breech than your hornet barrel. If this number is larger than the number you got in your subtraction in 2, then your .30-30 barrel is not going to fit on the other frame because it is too long from hinge pin to breech. If it is less than the number from your subtraction in 2 then you cam probably file the lugs or change them out and make it fit.

Please try this and report. Hope it helps.

RonF

bgjohn · « **Reply #6 on:** February 28, 2005, 11:29:27 AM »

Do you mean it won't close, or do you mean it won't lock up? If it closes but doesn't lock you need to stone your locking lugs.
JM

KN · « **Reply #7 on:** February 28, 2005, 11:32:39 AM »

Some one feel free to tell my I'm loco, but isn't there a screw on the breach face that is prone to backing out and causing this problem? I have never had it happen but it seems this came up not too long ago. KN

bgjohn · « **Reply #8 on:** February 28, 2005, 11:33:11 AM »

Is either of these barrels or frames an "armour alloy". The frame serial # starts with AA on an amour alloy frame. An AA barrel looks like stainless but shinier.

grinch · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2005, 02:20:42 PM »

Considering Ron's suggestion I miked the frames. I found that there is a .010 difference in the pivot pin location. I also determined that the 30/30 barrel is .005 difference from pin to aft face. I removed my lugs on the 30/30 barrel and set it into place. The pivot pin dropped right in but it wouldn't open. So, I would have to slowly remove material from the aft barrel face below the lugs until it closes. I also tried it with the lugs in place and I couldn't install the pin. I suspect after getting it to close, I might have to remove a little on the back of the lugs too. It's all kinda like Brylcream; a little dab'll do ya! Thanks for the ideas. I always thought though that a contender is a contender and freely interchangeable. .015 can sure make a difference.

RonF · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2005, 01:44:30 AM »

Actually, there is an error in step 3 of my procedure. We should not be comparing the extra length of the .30-30 barrel to the subtraction in step 2, but rather to the clearance measurement in step 2 with the hornet barrel on the problem frame. If the extra length is greater than the hornet clearance then distance from pin to breech is the problem and material needs to be removed from the barrel breech and/or lug bottom rear. Sorry for the error.

KN, you are correct - sort of. The screw which holds the recoil shield and firing pins is on the rear of the standing breech under the hammer. It can get loose and let the recoil shield move forward. This might be worth checking, as it would show up as a foreshortened measurement from hinge pin hole to standing breech. I would certainly check that before I started filing. In fact, I'm not sure I'd file at all; just use that .30-30 barrel on a frame that works for it. I have one or two barrels that don't like certain frames I own, and I suspect one of them to be a dimensional problem rather than a lug problem. I just use it on a frame that makes it happy.

RonF