Author Topic: Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Rings  (Read 764 times)

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Offline DropTheHammer

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Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Rings
« on: March 03, 2005, 04:09:36 PM »
I recently came across a good deal on an old set of Leupold dual dovetail base and rings.  Have been holding onto them for just the right barrel.  They look to be very well made, was wondering if they would hold up on  my 10" .44MAG barrel.  I would think so, anyone beg to differ?


Offline Bullseye

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Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Ring
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2005, 04:45:26 PM »
That is all I use anymore.  I must be the only guy around that has had more trouble than I ever cared to with Weaver bases.

Offline KYODE

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Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Ring
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2005, 06:05:17 PM »
oughta do fine, but i'd recommend lapping the rings to true them up and placing friction pads in the top/bottom ring halves. this would assure the scope was stress free and friction pads would prevent scope slippage. sticky back labels will work for friction pads.

Offline DropTheHammer

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Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Ring
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2005, 05:19:58 AM »
Can you provide me with a how to on lapping the rings?

Offline skb2706

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Leupold T/C Contender Scope Mount Base/Ring
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2005, 06:24:57 AM »
If you check out the Brownells catalog they have kits for lapping scope rings. I made my own and the process I use is to install the mount(s) on the gun.
using a short piece of precision chrome bar 1.00" I install the rings on the mounts by first clamping the front ring to the bar and turning it into the dovetail. I then repeat the step for the rear ring making every attempt to get the back rings very close to the front in alignement. Next I remove the top halves and set the 1" bar back in the bottoms and just snug mounting the tops. Once the bar will set in both rings top and bottoms making minor adjustments until both rings are aligned. Remove the top of the rings place a similar bar stock with a handle welded on one end and a couple of narrow grooves down the length of the bar in the ring bottoms. I use a 240 grit lapping compound (others use finer grade like 400)...which has the consistency of grease with a fine sand in it. Wipe the lapping compound evenly around the bar for the length of it. Put the top halves of the rings on the bottoms but only tighten to the point where you can still push and pull the bar thru them. I use a slight twist to the right and then alternate to a slight twist to the left as I am pushing and pulling the bar thru. You are slowly removing a small amount of metal from the inner surface of the rings...particularly the bottoms. At some point the resistance will be less. I then check as I go...you can see how much material you are removing. Based on what I have read and my experience doing it many times I don't think you really need to get 100 % contact everytime.....I try to get at least 75%....like I said you can see it. You may need to remove more material...if so tighten the rings together with the bar in them ...ever so slightly and continue. Be sure to check often because you can over do it and the rings will clamp together but not tighten on the scope tube if you do too much.
Although this is not the exact instructions from a Brownells kit nor is it the tools they use it has worked for me many times. One very important step is to clean up everything really well when you are done. Lapping compound gets into all kinds of little places and can be a real PITA on little screws and tight fitting parts. Once the rings are correctly lapped they require significantly less torque to hold a scope in place....I like to use a very thin film of silicone on just the bottom of the rings to hold the scope in place.