Mounting a scope...a few questions

[MIdeerhunter]

Hello everyone, i did what a lot of ppl suggested in previous posts, taking the factory base off, cleaning out debris, and then re-installing with loctite, I tightened the screws that connect the base to the gun as tight as possible, is this okay or will it hurt the gun? I am not concerened about ever taking it off again so removal isn't an issue, and i also tightened the base to the ring as tight as i could (the screw that goes accross the weaver base, not the ones that hold on the scope), my question is if hte base screws to the gun are really tight is it going to hurt the gun? Also on my handi, there is a gap between the barrel and the front of the mount because of the contour of the barrel, does anyone mount the scope up here on this notch or do you keep it back where it is still supported by the barrel or will it not make any difference? Thank-you in advance!

[bluebayou]

I tried a little wax under the Weaver base as a preventative because it seems like I am always in the rain.  Just a wipe-on and wipe-off bit of car wax.  Other than that...clean screwholes, loctite, and tightening them up should do it.  Some people are using JB Weld under the front of the base.  Make a dam with tape.  Use a release agent on the parts.  I have never done it or the O-ring.  I sanded out the channel on the forearm, support the rifle at the action when at the bench, and use the forearm screw method of "tighten and back off 1/4 turn".  My 223 will boringly shoot 3/4" all day long.  No complaints here.

[quickdtoo]

On the base over hang, some people bed that part in epoxy, but use a release agent on it so it can be removed. The Ultra rail which comes on the Ultras and some Handis is an inch longer and has a set screw in it. I've mounted scopes both ways, on the over hang and behind it, all shoot just as good, it just gives you more latitude in mounting options. The ring base clamps and base screws should be fairly tight, but not so tight that you would strip or break the screws. The ring screws don't need to be near as tight, Leupold is the only mfr that I've seen torque specs on, 20-23 inch/lbs, IIRC, which isn't much. I tighten them a bit more than that, though.

[Good Keen Man]

message for quickdtoo - you mentioned - "The ring screws don't need to be near as tight..." - just want to confirm that you are referring to the part of the scope bases that encircle the scope tube?? Newbie question I know! Without a torque wrench how do you measure the required tightness??[/quote]

[quickdtoo]

I just tighten them by feel, they sort of stop turning at a certain point when I use just finger pressure on the torx driver.. I also have adjustable torque screwdrivers that can be used but after using them for a while, you kinda get to know how tight is tight enough. It's kinda like installing spark plugs, you can feel when the gasket collapses and you stop then, the ring screws will also tell you when they are tight enough. It's probably more of a technique developed after years of wrenching.....I got my Utica TS 30, 35 and 100 at Ebay for for $20-$35. They usually sell for $130 and up retail USD. The link just happens to be Canadian.

http://www.e-sci.com/jensen/RENDER/1/26/235/3546.html