Author Topic: I've got a screw loose... (Read 871 times)

AZ223 · « **on:** March 27, 2005, 06:41:57 PM »

Actually, it's my 686-3. It was purchased new in the '80's, and has maybe 2500 rounds through it. I pulled the sideplate off recently to see if the mechanism was getting dirty; it was the cleanest part of the gun. Since then, the flathead screw under the cylinder on the right-hand side wants to come loose when shooting. Since I have a real knack at stripping threads, is there something else I can do to keep it from backing out? :oops: I have some blue locktite, but am reluctant to use it for fear I may never get it out again. I'm planning on working up some heavy loads with it, and I'd hate to loose the screw completely.

Thanks in advance...

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2005, 12:31:47 AM »

If you are tightening it down good and it still comes loose, use the blue loc-tite. You will be able to get it apart again. Just don't use red lock-tite.

S.B. · « **Reply #2 on:** March 28, 2005, 07:07:48 PM »

Are you sure your putting the screws back where they came from? The only flat head screw that I've ever seen goes on the rear, top of the side plate? The other two are more round head?

HappyHunter · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2005, 12:23:33 PM »

I thing that S.B. is on to something. The screw under the grip does have a flat top on it. The other two screws are domed or oval on top, these are filister head screws.

The filister head screws can look the same and be slightly different lengths as well. The front one locks the cylinder yoke to gun and if the wrong screw is in place it can cause cylinder to bind while opening/closing.

sawfish · « **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2005, 10:53:55 AM »

SB and Happy Hunter are correct, your screws are in the wrong place. The flat screw goes at the rear of the gun under the grip. The front screw is the yoke screw, and is used to maintain tension on the yoke. Yoke screws are usually fitted to the individual gun. Do not loctite your sideplate screws. The ejector rod housing is probably the only place loctite is needed on a stock smith, as they somerimes back out making the cylinder hard to open (most are LH thread !).

Otherwise, loctite is not necessary, and you will probably mar the sideplate when removing the loctite screws. Check the screws for snugness after each gun cleaning, and you will be okay. If you have lost or damaged screws, you can order replacements from Brownells. They have screws for all of the blue and stainless S & W revolvers, and still have screws for some of the nickel models, which S & W terms "obsolete". You would be smart to order spares as insurance against future planned obsolence. Good luck.

S.B. · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2005, 11:01:18 AM »

If, most assumptions here are correct, and you've misplaced the screws, and you then put them in the right places, and the cylinder binds, reverse the two round head screws. Probably the wrong screw in the front hole? I don't loctite anything on a S&W, invest in the proper tools (Brownells) and get the ejector rod tite, the first time.

AZ223 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 06, 2005, 11:01:15 AM »

Thanks for the replies. The one in front is a round head; my bad. I think I'm going to order new ones from Brownell's just in case.

Thanks again

S.B. · « **Reply #7 on:** April 06, 2005, 11:05:38 AM »

Quote from: AZ223

Thanks for the replies. The one in front is a round head; my bad. I think I'm going to order new ones from Brownell's just in case.

Thanks again

Just make sure that the one your putting in the front hole is fitted properly.

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 06, 2005, 04:22:29 PM »

AZ223, I assumed the screws were in the right holes. Sorry about that.

sawfish · « **Reply #9 on:** April 07, 2005, 06:43:16 AM »

S.B., I agree with you that most of the time loctite is unnecessary if the ejector rod housing is properly tightened by the proper method (not pliers). However, I have occasionally encountered an S & W revolver that chronically seems to work the EJ housing loose. For what it is worth, nickel finish guns seem to be the worst offenders. I picked up the loctite tip from Maj. George Nonte's book "Pistolsmithing", and it solves the problem. I use a very small amount of loctite blue. Just MHO. Regards.