Military Mauser stock finish

[Airsporter]

What was the original finish for military Mauser rifles?  Was it like the U.S. - dipped in hot Boiled Linseed oil?

I have an as-new Yugo 24/47 but the unblemished stock appears almost unfinished.  I was going to do a finish sand/oil but don't want to screw it up!

Suggestions?

[Iowegan]

The closest you will get to the factory finish is to use Birchwood Casey's True Oil. Sand first with 220 grit sandpaper followed by polishing with 0000 steel wool. Apply a light coat of True Oil with your finger and let it dry overnight. Then give it a good once-over with some 0000 steel wool. The finish should seal the grain but not be shinney. It usually takes a few light coats to seal the grain.

As you describe your Mauser, it probably has the original finish. War guns were not supposed to shine. Too easy for the enemy to spot.  The Yugo guns had a variety of different wood. Some were very light colored and some were dark Turkish walnut. All stocks and barrel guards are serial numbered in the barrel channel. It adds value if all serial numbers match.

The factory finish tends to yellow with age no matter what wood was used. You can polish it with 0000 steel wool to liven up the surface, then put some Birchwood Casey's stock wax on and buff with a towel.

[gunnut69]

I also use a DanishOil finish called 'okeene' by the maker.  It is a thin oil that easily penetrates the wood.  It is almost impossible to build up a finish with this stuff, instead it builds a finish 'in' the wood..  I apply to a stock heated to uncomfortable with a heat gun.  Keep the wood slthered with the finish until the stock cools. The excess should be wiped from the stock with a course cloth, cross grain..  The mauser were originally literally boiled or submerged in hot oil.  This soaked the wood with the protective oil.  There would as Iowegan said be almost no, or at least very little finish buildup on the surface.  Regular linseed oil should not be used on a stock as it almost never dries.. and will become sticky when handled in normal summer temps.  TruOil can indeed be used but the surface buildup should be cut back to the woods surface and the stock waxed after the pores are sealed.