Author Topic: special loads (Read 1560 times)

rickyp · « **on:** February 13, 2003, 05:39:59 PM »

what "special loads" do you all reload
I load 1 oz slugs and about to start loading duplex turkey loads.
I am also thinking about making a "celebration load" take a normal shotshell and inplace of the pellets I am thinking about filling the case with mica. It should make a real nice poof of white smoke and a goof bang.

.45 COLT · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2003, 02:08:38 AM »

I just got a LEE slug mold, so I expect I'll try that pretty soon. My last attempt at slug loading many years ago was a disaster. The roll crimp whipped me.

Another thing I want to try is the shorty loads - 2", as sort of described in Hodgdon's manual/magazine.

Loaded a lot of buckshot, got so much stockpiled that I probably won't do any more of that for quite a while.

rickyp · « **Reply #2 on:** February 14, 2003, 03:10:43 AM »

do you use any buffer with your buck shot. We are not able to use buck shot in my part of MD even though every shooting store has it in stock.

my slugs have not been what i would expect I am getting a lot of plastic build up in the rifling and shots all over the place. I think i just have to lower the charge some and do some fine tuning

.45 COLT · « **Reply #3 on:** February 14, 2003, 04:51:34 AM »

Plastic fouling shouldn't bother me, I have all smoothbores. Factory slugs actually give pretty fair groups with them. Just want to try my own again.

I don't use buffer with the buckshot loads I've played with. I've heard of too many problems associated with it. The closest I've used is some #2 or #4 shot to fill in with 0000 and 000 loads. Weighed the load and adjusted the charge accordingly. Makes an impresive hole in targets at close range. I don't hunt with buckshot, just play with it with an eye for a defensive or offensive load if need be.

Bob_K · « **Reply #4 on:** February 14, 2003, 09:07:02 AM »

Plastic fouling in slug loads can be a function of what velocity you load to, and whose wads you use. Obviously you can drive a slug/wad faster that the wads ability to engage the rifing without stripping. In load development, consider adjusting the slug IV in the mix of varibles. (Most of my slugs have completely penetrated the deer, so velocity is not an issue. I have enough.) Some wads are harder than others. I found that WW factory wads to be just a little harder than Claybuster equivilient wads (which is borne out by slightly lower pressures with Claybuster).

rickyp · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2003, 11:37:49 AM »

I am thin king about getting some wads for steel shot and see if they work any better

Mr. 16 gauge · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2003, 04:08:04 PM »

12 gauge: Slugs, buckshot, steel shotshells, bismuth shotshells, blanks.

16 gauge: buckshot, nickle plated turkey loads, copper plated pheasant loads, bismuth shotshells,

20 gauge: bismuth shotshells, blanks.

Looking for something new....will probably start loading 16 gauge slugs and might do some experimenting with hevishot.

rickyp · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2003, 02:31:59 AM »

how do you make the blank loads?

You can always try making 410 slugs they are not good for much but will be fun to shoot in an contender barrel

Mr. 16 gauge · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2003, 01:32:21 AM »

Making shotgun blanks is relatively easy. You can use any 12 gauge case (I like to pick up those Winchester "dove and quail" polyformed cases, as they are not good for much else). Use a Winchester 209 primer and a charge of 32.0 grains Hi-Skor 700-X. Then simply stack cardboard wads (available from BP or Precision reloading) until you have enough for a crimp...usually takes 9 tot 12 wads, depending on the thickness of the wad. That's all there is to it!. Some folks say just load a regular plastic wad and crimp without shot.....problem with that is that the powder doesn't burn and you get gunk in your action. Some guys say load up millet in place of shot.....problem with that is you are introducing a seed to an area in which it may do harm, and it is still firing a "projectile", albiet a light one. The cardboard shreds while coming out the bore, so it appears a shower of confetti.....looks like a birds feather's when hit, and the cardboard is biodegradable. They will work in any gun, but they don't have enough "ooomph" to cycle the action of a semiauto. As always, don't point these at anyone...they can still be lethal at close range. Good luck.
P.S. for 20 gauge, same rules apply, except reduce your powder charge to 21.0 grains of Hi-Skor 700-X.