Source for disassembly instructions

[Zcarp2]

Brought home a S&W Mod 10-5 and she is gummy with old lube in the lockwork.  Searched the web and have not found any instructions, but do have the exploded diagrams.  The NRA guide that I used to have access to is now out of reach.

Instead of wading into it, I would like some instructions.  I have pulled the side plate and confirmed the old lube theory.  

Any help is appreciated in getting this old Smith operating again.

[bigdaddytacp]

Brought home a S&W Mod 10-5 and she is gummy with old lube in the lockwork.  Searched the web and have not found any instructions, but do have the exploded diagrams.  The NRA guide that I used to have access to is now out of reach.

Instead of wading into it, I would like some instructions.  I have pulled the side plate and confirmed the old lube theory.  

Any help is appreciated in getting this old Smith operating again.

......If you didn't "pry" the sideplate off, then you have the first problem out of the way......note the location of the hammer block lever loose on the rebound slide to up under the hammer front at the frame. and it is the only loose part in the action.....release pressure on the mainspring retaining-tension screw in the bottom of the grip frame front.....then pull the trigger to the rear and wiggle the hammer while lifting it off the hammer pin...the firing pin nose just clears the frame......use a small screwdriver....if you don't have a special tool....to compress the trigger rebound spring inside the retaining block -known as the rebound slide.......watch for it to try to escape and get lost.......when you get the spring out ,the block will lift loose and the trigger can be lifted off its pin when you hold the "hand" ...the attached verticle reaching lever that turns the cylinder-extractor assy,back out of the slot it is in within  the frame........use a solvent to clean the springs and the shinny bearing surfaces on the frame at the hammer/trigger pins......don't take the "hand" out of the trigger...it will clean in the trigger and then you don't have to fight the spring to return the hand to the trigger.....don't take the extractor star or rod out of the cylinder...just check to make sure the ejector rod is hand/finger tight and don't use a plier type tool on the rod...just use solvent and pump the gunk out of the cylinder where the rod depresses and under the extractor star......use a medium weight gun oil....Rem oil, or Tri-flo../.similar-to relube LIGHTLY the hammer pin/trigger pin area...rebound spring and rebound block where it rides on the inner frame.....the hand on the trigger where the spring and pin retains the hand....the cylinder thumb release has the one large screw and needs the slot cleaned and under the thumb piece........and light lube in the slot...WATCH the rear end of the cylinder release lever that slides when the thumb peice is pushed as it has a SMALL pin and spring in the rear that keeps the lever/thumbpeice pushed foreward against the opposite spring pressure from the centerpin of the cylinder.....clean the slot and small pin/spring recess and put the end with the pin/spring in the slot against the rear of the frame and the thumbpeice threaded stud will pop thru the frame and let you put the thumbpeice and nut back on.....not too tight...the hollow nut is tender!!!make sure the sideplate is replaced with the upper under cut flange in the frame recess and then tilt it where the front leg under the cylinder starts in the frame and the rear lower part will sit flush with little finger pressure......the flat head sideplate screw goes under the grips at the rear hole and the front hole screw should have been noted as it is a fitted screw shaft to regulate the ease of the cylinder opening and "endshake" adjustment of the crane/yoke .....check for timming and "push off" of the action while dryfiring the gun with snap caps if possible, to work the oil into the friction points and make sure the assembly went correctly........hth...good luck and good shooting!!

[Zcarp2]

Thank you kind Sir!

"don't take the extractor star or rod out of the cylinder...just check to make sure the ejector rod is hand/finger tight and don't use a plier type tool on the rod...just use solvent and pump the gunk out of the cylinder where the rod depresses and under the extractor star....."

May I ask why I shouldn't disassmble this?  I have removed the yoke and have been flushing solvent into this, but it is still dirty and does not spin as freely as I believe it should - still sticky even with a load of solvent through it.  It would be easier to clean disassmbled, but not if reassembly is difficult.  The rod is tighter than my fingers can manage, so I have not gone further.

I picked this gun up on a whim - Serial Number Starts C2?? (don't have it in front of me), so this leads me to the 60's for a date of manufacture.  It is in 70% condition and the action was sticky.  

Having it refinished will destroy any collectors value. - But as is, she looks rough - pits on the cylinder and frame.  Is there any collector's value on a 6" Model 10-5?

Thanks again!

[gunnut69]

The reason he said to not disassemble the extractor star is that to do it without damage usually requires some specialized tools, usually but not always.  At to collectors value, that is a fairly common weapon and is fairly new..  and in pitted condition--not a lot of collector interest.. It is however a great old revolver...

[Zcarp2]

After flushing the cylinder and extractor star for the week (did not disassemble - thanks for the warning), I reassembled and played with it.  It is noticably smoother than before.  I used Hoppe's No. 9 and a whole lot of patience.  I am happy to report that all appears to be well.  Lock up is tight and trigger is smoother.

I did not do any type of polishing on this old shooter, simply removed the gunk.

Thanks for the "how to...".  I have it printed and will be doing a little cleaning for the next "pawn shop treasure".  And I think I will get this piece refinished for a working gun.