Author Topic: # 1.75 big enough for coyotes (Read 799 times)

KYtrapper17 · « **on:** February 18, 2003, 01:45:37 PM »

Is a # 1.75 big enough for a coyote. Thereason I ask is I have fox whee I trap and I don't want to get too big.

trappnman · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2003, 02:09:37 PM »

coyotero · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2003, 06:00:08 PM »

1.75's will work ok for coyotes,I personally like #2's better.#2's are good fox traps.I look for wide smooth jaw faces on canine traps.

Wackyquacker · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2003, 06:03:11 PM »

T-man, without offsetting do you need to grind the jaws to get the levers up when a coyotes paw is in the trap?

I got some of your wee traps to try. They were used and had been laminated. I base plated and four coiled to get the heavier jaws up faster in our half froozen gumbo. I have to offset and found that this mod. required to grinding the outside of the jaws a bit. Modified in this fashion they hold like a pro-defensive lineman.

I have found no significant foot damage. Also, with 4 lbs pan tension and gun/night latches I've had no misses, i.e., thrown paws. Another draw back with the 1.75s may be with cats, which often think the set was made for them,...their big paws just might get thrown. The other plus is less waxed dirt to bed and the smaller hole lets me "sneak" one in a bit easier than with my big iron.

I do wonder if the beginner, in the absence of on line (trap line) mentoring, might have a bit harder time getting started with these smaller traps.

trappnman · « **Reply #4 on:** February 19, 2003, 12:38:49 AM »

T-man, without offsetting do you need to grind the jaws to get the levers up when a coyotes paw is in the trap?

I don't do anything to my 1.75s beyond the pan/trigger and the swivels. have no trouble or saw a need to file the levers. Thing about modifiying traps- one modification leads to another- 4 coils need baseplates and laminated jaws.

I do wonder if the beginner, in the absence of on line (trap line) mentoring, might have a bit harder time getting started with these smaller traps.

There are definitely some tricks- but there is in any coyote trapping. Guiding is the most important thing needed with smaller traps.

I do have some #2 Offset Bridgers with all the bells and whistles- and haven't noticed any difference in performance over the 1.75s. I do like the "square jaws" better than the round jaws on my 1.75.

TRAPPER-N-HUNTER · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2003, 08:56:25 PM »

I like all of the points here but the bigger the trap, the fewer the misses I have found. Make sure you have a good setup such as sturdy stakes or drags and make sure your traps springs are strong.

trappnman · « **Reply #6 on:** February 28, 2003, 02:58:08 AM »

I like all of the points here but the bigger the trap, the fewer the misses I have found.

O'Gorman said (re 1.75) "I don't have many losses with them, but I get a lot of misses"

I have to agree with that- but on farmland coyotes- I find that as long as you haven't spooked them (and most misses are because of guiding on flat sets), most of the "misses" become "catches in a day or two.

I would also say that the difference between most #1.75 and #2 is a "six of one, half a doz of the other" kind of thing. I had one trap manufactor tell me that why spend the extra money on #2- they were basicly the same trap as a 1.75. He said if trappers didn't think they needed a #2, they would quit making them. So if you want a bigger trap- go for a #3 or one of the coyote specfic traps like JC or Brocker makes.

Fatcatbuster · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2003, 10:03:53 AM »

I have used Bridger 1.65 four coiled with shock springs for Fox here in Maine for three years with good results ive caught more than a few coyotes in them also.We have a 24 hour check which helps ,plus i use dirt anchors with a very short chain. I change to Bridger # 2 and 3 when it gets cold and there is a frost. But i really like the smallness of the 1.65 and 1.75 they bed great and i dont have to carry so much dirt..