This is a post I entered at another site just a week ago to answer the same question. I hope it helps
There is a lot of items out there that will be wanted in time as you progress in this obsession we call reloading. This post is for you to get started. Feel free to add things as you see necessary. What I am about to explain is the process for loading that first batch. All reloading manuals will explain this also. The point of this post is for those that have never done it and dont have the manuals. It will give you an idea of what you will need and the steps to get started. It may help you make up your minds as to whether you want to proceed. Techniques vary as much as we the individuals do. You do not have to doit this way but if you follow these simple directions you will get that first batch loaded.
The list of have to have items. After several reloading manuals
1.Patience and attention to detail
2. reloading press-Single stage or progressive. I will deal with the single stage.
3 solid work bench bigger than you think you will need.
4. Set of dies and shell holder, bullets, powder, hulls, primers for the rifle you will be shooting.
5. Scales and powder funnel, balance beam or electronic, I will be dealing with the balance beam type.
6 case lube and a case lube pad. or spray lube. I will be dealing with the pad.
7. Calipers
8. Trimmer and inside/outside chamfer tool.
9. loading block and a couple cigar boxes with the lids cut out.
10. Powder measure and trickler. Note. a trickler can be made using a 30-06 hull with spent primer left in place. fill to about half way point then tap lightly with finger as you slowly pour it into the pan. with just a little practice you can drop one kernel at a time doing this
11. primer pocket cleaner
12. a nylon bristle brush of the caliber you will be loading.
13. some type of powder type neck lube. I use a teaspoon of motor mica or moly and a small short container 3/4 full of .8 steel or lead shot.
14. Hand held priming tool.
PROCEDURE FOR PRESIZING CASE PREP
This is fired cases, If new unfired cases are being used, you may move to the SETTING UP SIZING DIE
Step 1. If you have a tumbler, throw your cases in and go watch a movie. If not(it was not listed because it is not a have to have item) Use some bore cleaner on a soft cloth or bore patch and clean the carbon from the outside of the necks. as you clean each one, drop into one of those cigar boxes. after all are done, use the bristle brush and clean the carbon from the inside of the necks, no solvant. we dont want anything wet inside the cases. I usually chuck the brush up in a cordless drill, and make a few passes. Taking each one from the box, brushing the inside of the necks and dropping into the other box. You dont want to miss any.
Step Two. That container of steel shot with the moly powder in it needs to be shaken up, then tapped on the table a few times to settle the moly or motor mica. Take each case and insert into the steel shot gently and twist a few times. As you remove them, wipe the residue from the outside of the necks and stand in the reloading block neck down. We have just made it easy for the expander ball to slide back through the necks without it grabbing and stretching the necks.
SETTING UP THE SIZING DIE
Step one. Take that new sizing die and remove the expander plug. loosen the lock ring and look for the vent hole up around where the shoulder area is. There is probably some grinding compound in that hole from the polishing process. Use a paper clip and clean that hole out. This lets the air escape when sizing and prevents dents in the shoulder area.Use a bore patch on a chamber mop lightly wetted with HOPPES 9 or similar cleaner and clean inside of die. Dry inside. now with the expander still removed and shell holder in the ram, lower handle to the bottom of the stroke. screw sizing die in till light contact is made. Do not set lock screw in lock ring. I use a pair of channel lock pliers to lightly set lock ring against top of press. This will enable us to move it as we find the correct setting for the sizing die.
Step 2.Put about 5 drops of sizing lube on the pad, using an old credit card as a trowel spread the sizing lube into the pad. there should be just enough lube to cover the pad. It should not be visable as a shiny substance but rather squeezed into the material of the pad. Unlubed cases will stick and break the rim off and then you will need a case remover. Too much lube and you will dent the cases. Using this method I never have dented or stuck cases. Trust me I have done both in the past. These are the tricks I learned from trial and error.
Take one case and with the shoulder hanging off the pad, roll the case across the pad about two revolutions. This lubes the body of the case and not the shoulder and neck. We don't want any lube there.
Put this shell into the shell holder and run into Die. Take it out and wipe lube from case. Put this case in the rifle and close bolt. The bolt should not close. We have squeezed the sides in and that in turn moved the shoulder forward which makes the headspace too long to fit in your chamber.
Continue this process tightening the sizing die down each time about 1/8 of a turn. When the case will chamber with light pressure on the bolt, The die is set. This process makes the case fit into YOUR chamber. It may not fit in someone elses chamber, but with this process you have all but eliminated any case head seperation from Excessive head space.
Note: Auto Rifles will have to be sized smaller and not a snug fit to allow for the closing of the bolt.
Step 3.Replace expander and decapping rod. screw in just enough to push the primer from the case next time you run a case into the die. Too deep and you will bend the expander rod by making contact the the bottom inside of the case
Run all the cases through this properly set up die and put back in cigar box as you take each out of the press.
Step 4. Remove die and clean inside as at the begining and place back in box.
POST SIZING CASE PREP
Step 1. Wipe cases clean of the sizing lube. Rubbing alcohol works really well on a soft cloth, again swapping boxes as you go.
Step 2. Clean the carbon from the primer pockets. Again swapping boxes. We don't want to miss one.
Step 3. Trim all cases to The recommended Trim length. Even if they are not longer than the max case length. All Factory loadings I have ran across have a crimp groove at the top of the case. This will damage the new bullets. After trimming, chamfer inside and outside of the necks. We dont want it sharpened, just take the square edge off the necks.
Step 3 Prime all the cases with the primer you have selected and as you do stand each case neck down in the loading block.
Step 4. Visually check each case for primers in place, run a finger across the base of each case and make sure no primers are extended past the base of the case. They should be slightly lower than the base.
POWDER TIME.
Step 1. Set up scales on a level bench top. Using screw adjustment per manufacturers reccommendations the scale should be level, to the point that when all weights are at 0 the pointer is even.
Step 2. Set weights to the desired charge weight of the powder you will be wanting to load, then move back 1 grain weight. IE. If you are wanting to load with 25.5 grains of powder, you want the weight indicators set at 24.5 grains.
Step 3. Fill hopper in powder measure to about 1/2 to 2/3 full of powder. Screw out metering adjustment and drop one charge into pan. Put on scale. Screw in or out on metering adjustment, continue throwing one charge into pan till the scales balance. now you are one grain low on the desired charge. move the weight indicators to the desired setting, throw a charge and trickle powder into pan till it balances at the desired loading weight.
Step 4. Turn one case up right in loading block and using funnel pour charge into the case.
Step 5. Continue this process till all cases have been filled.
Step 6. Take entire loading block and get under a good light. Visually check each case to ensure powder is in each case. With rifle powders it is rare case that you can get a double charge and if you do it will overflow. With pistol cases and a fast powder you can get a double. check that all cases look to be the same amount in the case.
BULLET SEATING PROCEDURE
Step 1. Place Charged case into the shell holder.Lower handle to bottom of stroke
Step 2. Loosen lock ring and screw seating die slowly into press till you feel contact on the case. This is the Crimping ring making contact with the case mouth. Back the die up about 1/8 turn and set lock ring. Note; unless you are using a bullet with a crimp groove no crimp should be used. I only crimp when using a tubular magazine rifle to prevent the bullets from being shoved back in to the case
Step 3. back seating stem all the way up into the die.
raise handle, lowering the ram, take one bullet and with one hand place bullet into case mouth and hold there as you slowly lower handle with other hand.completely lower handle till you are at the top of stroke. screw seating stem down till you feel contact. Raise handle slightly and screw stem down about 4 turns. lower handle. remove cartridge and measure with dial calipers.
Step 4. Check against loading manual to see how much deeper you need to set bullet to reach maximum COL measurement.
Step 5. Continue seating bullet deeper till you have the COL you are seeking. Set the seating stem lock nut and finish seating all bullets.
Make accurate notes as to what you have loaded. Clean up you spilled powders and put things back up. A neat bench is a safe bench. Use safety glasses during all operations and good luck on you new hobby. Go shoot.
I know this has been a long post and I hope the moderators are OK with it. This is my first attempt at writing any thing. I have set out the procedures for a beginner to get started. There are many others here that may have a better way or see something I have missed. This way works. It can be improved upon as you progress. I have not dealt with pressures or customizing your loads.
Thanks to all. Randy
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