S&W Trigger

[Bullseye]

I just purchased a S&W 41 Mag Revolver (model 657 I think).  The trigger has no creep but is a little heavy at 4lbs 12 oz.  In the past I have changed springs in Contenders and Ruger SA & DA revolvers if the guns have no creep.  If the triggers have creep I take them to a gunsmith since stoning is required.

Since this is my first S&W I am not sure how to tackle lightening the trigger to 3 to 3 1/2 pounds like all my other guns.  Is this one easy to do yourself, or should it go to a smith?

Thanks for any help you can provide!

[John Traveler1]

I have a S&W 657 too.  After several years of thousands of rounds of cycling/shooting, it has smoothed out.

A "home made" trigger job on these stainless steel S&W guns is possible, but not recommended for the amatuer smith.  The hammer and triggers of S&W stainless revolvers are hard chromium plated carbon steel, and subject to the same working precautions as the case-hardened unplated carbon steel parts.  That is, the sear surfaces are case hardened, and improper trigger stoning will wear through the case hardening and ruin the parts, making the gun unsafe.

As for making the trigger action lighter, simply replacing the trigger rebound spring, lightening the hammer spring, cleaning and relubricating with moly grease should make a big difference in trigger pull with no other changes.  Leave the fancier trigger work to a fully QUALIFIED smith.

HTH
John

[Mikey]

Bullseye - I'm with John Traveler1 on this one - good trigger jobs on S&Ws are best left to qualified gunsmiths.  That being said however and to follow-up further on John's advice is to recommend you get onto the Wolffe Springs website (they are in Pennsylvania) to see the different types of spring kits available for the N-frame Smiths and then have your gunsmith install one of your choice.  

Without changing any springs or 'smoothing out' any of the trigger parts, one S&W part can give ya lots of trouble - that's the rebound bar.  I have seen some come from the factory that needed de-burring inside and out and that had left gouges or scratch marks on the inside of the frame.  Once de-burred (in and out) it functioned smoothly enough for the owner to be satisfied with the trigger.  HTH.  Mikey.

[gunnut69]

Spring kits are indeed available for the 'N' frame Smiths and both the rebound spring and the mainspring can be replaced.  I have seen the mainspring 'thinned' or reduced in width to lower it's tension but prefer a full power spring in magnum calibers.  Mag primers are a bit harder and poor ignition can result from lighter mainsprings. if you want a little smoother action a power rib design from Wolff is available. They work well and are quite smooth.  Remove the sideplate on your revolver carefully by loosening the retaining screws(see diagram) and tapping on the grip frame(grips removed of course) with a softfaced mallet.  Do not damage the edge where the grips mate to the frame and under no circumstances pry on the sideplate!!  Remove the rebound slide.  A flatblade screw driver with a slot ground in the blade to clear the rebound stop pin is best but a regular screw driver can work in a pinch.  Deburr the rebound slide (inside and out) and try a lighter spring.  The kits come with several.  Use the one that meets your pull goal but delivers consistant action of the trigger.  Re-assmble after lubing with a good dry lube.. Be careful around the front of the rebound slide, don't over polish anywhere..

[Bullseye]

Thanks   all!