Case stuck in die

[handirifle]

Well, I've experienced another first, for me.  I was trying to load up some 30-06 this afternoon and after cleaning and lubing the cases I started resizing them.  Third one in stuck and there is NO gettin that sucker out.

Anyone have suggestions?  So far I've tried everything I can think of.  The shell holder ripped the rim half off.  Tried cutting the base off with a hack saw and drilling out the base enough to colapse the rim, no dice.

Anything short of throwing it away?  It is an RCBS die.

Must have been something inside the die is all I can figure.

[quickdtoo]

Maybe....

http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=4&s2=3&s3=34

http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-12259.html

[quickdtoo]

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=57991&highlight=stuck+case

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=55399&highlight=stuck+case

 :?

[218Bee]

Like brasskeeper said......

You will need to drill out the flash hole with a #7 drill bit, then thread the hole with a 1/4-20 tap then use a 1/4-20 bolt and the right size washers to draw the case out. The reloading companies sell a kit with the above tools and instructions. one cruder way is with the die in the press or in a vice clamp a pair of vicegrips on the head of the case and strike the vicegrips with a hammer. I hope this helps.
_________________
\"No Sparky it wasn't chambered in 222..... \" Smile

Works well for me and requires...what..$7.00 worth of materials or nothing at all if you already have a tap set and some threaded rod.

Good luck,

Rick

[cheatermk3]

You needed (and still do if you're gonna continue reloading) an RCBS stuck case remover.  If you've already cut off the case head you may be SOL but there's probably still enuff meat there to use the kit.

Every reloader should have one.

Get somw Imperial sizing die wax too.

[handirifle]

Well as cheater said I may be SOL but I have one last thing I'll try before giving up.

By the way, thanks for all the links, lots in there I never had to know about but do now.

I'm gonna try a bolt remover (not sure of name) where you drill out the center and this thing is like a drill bit but has reverse cut that will hopefully back it out.  If not then I buy a new set of dies and start over.

Bummer.

Wonder if the 30-06 die could be reamed out to 338-06???  Is it worth it?

[22KHornet]

I have to agree with Cheater.  If you don't have one, get one.  If you cut the case head off.....ouch SOL.  

Sorry it must be something with 06.  I had the same thing happen to me 2 years ago with nickle brass.  I have to admit I did everything but use a blow torch to no avail.

RCBS solved my problem in less time than it took to get my channel locks out.

[handirifle]

Now I remember, they're called easy outs.  We'll see I suppose.

[Paul5388]

More than likely, other than sending it to RCBS, the best approach is going to be just like people get stuck brass out of their chambers.  Spray some lubricant from both ends and let it sit for a while, then use something akin to an EZ out.  If it will move in a circular pattern, it will probably come out.  

Then get a set of Lee dies, where you can use the depriming pin to drive out a stuck case.  Just remember to put something, like a piece of flat bar, over the pin before you start whanging on it.

BTW, I have about 20 sets of RCBS dies dating back to the late '60s, but all of my new dies are Lee.

[22KHornet]

forgot to mention but if you go the RCBS stuck case remover remember one thing.  Make SURE that you decapping pin is all the way up.  Mine was not and I then had to order new decapping pins after the drill bit broke the original :evil:

[cheatermk3]

Again, DO NOT TRY AN EASY-OUT.

Your stuck case does not have threads on the outside that will act like an inclined plane, which is actually a form of lever, to lift the case out of the die.  At best, all you will accomplish is to finish the job of screwing yourself you started when you sawed off the base of the case.

The remedies detailed in the links Quick posted will work, as long as there is still some of the web portion of the case remaining.  It sounds, from your post about using an easy-out, that there IS enough material left for the tapping-pulling methods in those links to work.  

The methods described in those links do exactly what the RCBS stuck case remover does; all RCBS has done is assemble the tools and instructions into a neat package.

Using the tool takes far less time than it has taken me to type this post; it sounds a bit complicated but once you assemble the tool and do it you will be amazed at how well it works, and how simple and easy it is to do.

Either way, whether you get the kit or assemble the necessary tools and read the instructions in the links Quick posted, you can rest assured that you WILL be needing it again in the future.  

And, GET SOME IMPERIAL SIZING DIE WAX.

[quickdtoo]

Me thinks Cheatermk3 is right on, the easy out is just gonna compress inside what's left of the case making it tighter inside the die. If it's stuck that bad, getting it out without damaging/scratching the die is gonna be tough.  

Tim

[cheatermk3]

OOPS...

I just re-read your original post.  

How big a drill did you use?

If you've drilled enough of it away, an easyout may work. but only if you can get some sort of penetrating oil down between the case wall and the die.

Sizing dies are hardened so reboring to another, larger caliber would cost more than a new set of dies.

Every time that I've gotten a case stuck, it was because I was in a hurry and either mis-applied of under-used my lube.

The goop-and-pad method RCBS recommends is messy, slow, and should be removed after the sizind operation.

The aerosols, like the Hornady, need to be evenly applied and must dry completely before cases are sized; not-dry-enough lube of this type has accounted for the majority of my stuck cases.

The Squirt-type lubes, like the stuff Midway and dillon sell, work well but also must dry completely.  they are basicly lanolin cut with alcohol, and have the plus of migrating around the case; You put a one deep layer of cases in the bottom fo a shotr-sided container and pump a few squirts onto the cases; shake them up and repeat; dump them into another box and continue until all your cases are wetted.  Then wait 10-15 minutes for them to dry, and size away.  I like this type for lubing large quantities of cases.  It doesn't hurt to spray some into the necks to lube the inside of the necks too.  I do this in a well ventilated area the alcohol smell makes my head spin.

 I'll tumble the sized cases before loading them up.

For small lots, under 150, say, the best lube out there is Imperial sizing die wax.  A bit on your fingertips goes a LOOOOng way.

I have not stuck a case since I started using the latter two types of lube.

Good luck; I doubt the easyout will work.  But hey, I've been wrong before.

Lotsa times.

Let us know what happens?

edited to correct 1500 to 150

[Paul5388]

I've had EZ outs from MAC, SnapOn and a few others and I haven't ever had one to wedge the piece I was working on tighter.  If it doesn't grip the brass, ie the brass turns when the EZ out is installed, the brass isn't stuck.  If it gets a grip, it will be in the outer most part, since EZ outs are tapered.  The light jar from setting the EZ out with a small hammer may cause it to loosen up also, just like stubborn bolts that loosen up with a jar from a hammer.

You shouldn't need Imperial sizing wax or any other extreme duty lube with a .30-06.  I don't even use lubes like that to form .35 Whelen brass from .30-06 brass.

I have also used a Lee depriming pin in RCBS dies by unscrewing the expander inside the brass (jam it into the neck to hold it still after the lock nut is removed from the top of the rod) and removing the whole decapping rod.  Then line the expander up, that's floating around in the brass, with the Lee so the Lee pin is through the expander.  Put it in what's left of the primer pocket and give it a whack.  The Lee pin has to be from dies less than .30 caliber in this case.  Cut the case open to get the expander back to reinstall on the die.

I would suggest cleaning the expander, since that's probably what caused the whole problem (that's assuming the case was actually lubed) and lubing the inside of the case necks with Lyman or Hornady spray lube.

[handirifle]

after cleaning and lubing the cases

Read my first post.  They were lubed the same way I have been doing it for 30+ years and have never had one stick before, even lubed inside of case mouths.  Like I said, I think something got dirty.

I did not wipe them off after cleaning in the tumbler, so that might be a cause.  I'll see.

cheatermk3
The hole is nearly the size of the inside of the case body, so no bolt will work.  I fully see and understand how the RCBS unit works and since I have a tap and die set, it would have been nice if I had talked to you guys first, but...............

So now it will be the easy out or the die out, the door that is.

[Oklahoma Lefty]

You might try putting the die in the freezer over night. If all else fails, and you a really desperate you might try this trick, which works to get out a stuck bushing out from a fly wheel. Take out the decapping rod and get a wooden dow rod just big enough to fit in the top of the die (where you removed the decapping rod), then get some white bread and stuff it in the hole on top and tap it down with the wooden dow rod. It should dislodge the case, by the time you get half a slice of bread down the tube. I know this sounds nuts, but it works to get out stuck brass bushings.

Happy reloading

[Cottonwood]

I've had this happen before as well.  Nothing new under the sun  :shock:

Any way, unscrew the top of your die and remove the de-capper.  After placing the die back in the RCBS, you will have to use penitrating oil to spray down inside the die.  Then use a metal rod and see if it catches the lip of the case.  IF it does, gently tap the rod with a hammer to see if extraction is possible.  

If you can find a bolt to screw/thread up the open end of the case base, use a socket wrench to thread it up into the opening.  Brass is soft and will create its own threads as you turn the bolt.  Then run your rod down to see if it will hold in place.  If it holds, tap the rod to see if it will tap out from the top down thru the top of the die.

IF and only if, you shell casing is stuck beyond all extraction, you may be SOL    and have to purchase another sizer die.  If you have to purchase another, leave this die were you can see it, as a reminder of what not to do when case is stuck in die.  

You should have never cut the base of the case off, as if you had left it in place, the metal rod would have had a solid base to bump when tapping it out.

[tom barthel]

Hi

I've used an oil soak with success with this type of problem.  Others have used a freezing/heat treatment that often works.  If the outside can be warmed and the inside be chilled, the case may fall out on it's own.  Or you could help it with a hammer.  YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE.  The die is unusable now.  You may be able to save it.  Don't give up.  Try all solutions before dumping the die.

Good luck and God bless.

Tom

[handirifle]

Thanks for all the hints.  Had to wash the wifes car last night and 3 hrs of yardwork this AM.  Hopefully I'll get to work on it tonight.

I'll try anything, like was said it's no good the way it is, and thetre is nothing to lose.

[cheatermk3]

At this point, anything you try will be an exercise in determination, since you probably have better things to do than spend a bunch more of your time trying to save $30.

The heat/cold thing may do the trick.  I don't know off the top of my head which has the graeter thermal expansion ratio, steel of the die or brass of the case.  But, assuming the die can be heated, and the case chilled, you'll still need some type of force to pull the case outta the die.  

I'm thinking a copper or bronze bore brush, like maybe a 20gauge or so, stuffed partway into the case may have enuff grab if you can get the die hot and the case cold enough at the same time.

I'm thinking that putting the die w/stuck case into the oven at 350 degrees for an hour, then quickly putting it into a vise, and jetting the contents of a CO2 powerlet, or other COLD gas, up through the case, then quickly stuffing the oversize bore brush into the case and pulling back sharply, may do the trick.

Or, maybe the easyout will work.  But, it sounds like you still have a bit of a lip on the case where the rim/head used to be.

Myself, I think I'd already be in posession of another die (set).

Paul3588,
You don't NEED sizing die wax; it's just that it's so much easier, for me, when sizing small lots of cases, to use it than to use any other caselube I have seen/tried.  If the Hornady stuff works for you, I'm happy for ya.  I have a friend that shoots/reloads thousands of rounds every year using it.  I'm the guy who turned him on to the Hornady aerosol.  Me, I get in trouble every time I use the stuff; I just gave him my last can which has been on my shelf for 7 years.

[Paul5388]

cheatermk3,

I actually use very little case lube since I started using Lee collet dies for neck sizing.  The old RCBS case lube pad with 1973 lube still on it is better left for catching flies or mice in its stickiness.  I do have Imperial Wax, I just haven't ever used it.

This stuck case situation is exactly why I switched from RCBS to Lee.  I had three 257 Roberts AI cases in a row to stick in RCBS dies and didn't have the first to stick after I bought some Lee full length dies.

However, I don't want to leave the impression that I think RCBS is junk.  They make very good products, but at this point in time, Lee is much friendlier to forgetful old men like me.

Brass conducts heat better than steel.  That's why they used to make radiators for automobiles out of brass.

The hydraulic method might work, but grease is probably better than bread.  Screw the decapping rod back in, fill the case with grease and use a rubber tipped air nossle to force the grease toward the case mouth.

[knight0334]

Have you tried freezing the die with the stuck casing?  the brass should contract farther then the steel of the die.

[handirifle]

knight
No I haven't tried anything since I made this post.  Believe it or not haven't had a spare minute, but will have tomorrow AM.  I'll try everything then.

In the meantime I ordered a new set of Lee dies from Midway.