Iowegan; No problem I understand. My norinco is well used and i'm not sure how tight they are when there new but she sure does have that "45 rattle". I play it safe and make sure I "moly it up" at every place there is metal to metal contact so no more wear will occur. Moly stops wear dead in its tracks. But if you put too much moly on it, it can slow down the functioning too. I use it sparingly on my 45. I have noticed even if i put too much on my recoil spring with the full length guide it can really slow it down so just a little will reduce all wear and speed the cycling time up too. On the slide I like to work it in while the slide is empty then wipe off the excess and assemble it. The gun will seem a little tight at first but work it by hand a few times and you will see it loosen up then its ready to be shot. Using the right lube can sure cut down on wear. And with moly your wear will be zero even the bluing won't wear off were there is metal to metal contact.
Where to put moly on the 45acp;
Frame rails, frame on the detent pin, slide rail grooves, bottom of the slide in the detent pocket, barrel on the bushing wear area, barrel lugs, barrel link, Recoil spring, full length guide rod (recoil spring) & trigger sear.
I don't want to beat this moly thing to death but "WEAR" is our enemy and if we can eliminate it all together our guns will last forever and moly does this. You have an insurance policy against wear and sometimes you don't realize it.
I was rebuilding gravely tractors and selling them part time.
I rebuilt one Gravely tractor(my own) and i recoated the cylinder with moly when i bored it and put a new piston in it. I didn't realize it had a spun rod bearing because you have to press the crank part to see it. It was just my bad luck the oil hole was lined up with the hole in the rod when i checked it when the crank was together. I went out tilling gardens with this machine and after my third garden the motor sputtered a little when i finished it. When i got home i started tilling my garden at home when it sputtered again and i realized something was wrong with it. I took the motor apart and the cylinder and piston never got oil squirted from the rod it only got some from the splash from the crank bearings which was very little. Upon inspection the cylinder was ok, the piston could be reused but only the rings were cooked. This is an air cooled engine that ran with hardley any oil going to the cylinder while tilling gardens. Like i said its an insurance policy you don't know you have until something happens. I consulted my local dealer were i buy my parts and what caused this was the previous owner ran the machine with heavy oil in it in the winter so the crank had no oil so the bearing spun. The heavy oil in the cold weather makes it take a longer to get thru the oil filter so a by pass oil line for cold weather operation is needed. It was a fluke thing that the oil hole was lined up when i checked it too. I must of rebuilt about 50 machines and i never seen this again but i sure did check them more closely and this happened to my own machine too. Moly sure saved my butt that day just the parts could of run into many $500 all i needed was a $20 set of rings and a new rod/bearing/crank pin. Now its only $20 can of moly my guns never leave home without it.
Since the moly weathered so well in a over heated air cooled engine sure raised the idea in my mind to apply it in the gas system of the semi-auto rifles like the AK47 and SKS ect. I know most guys (99.9%) run their gas systems with no lube and they will say the gas system needs no oil but there has been many yugo sks's that were sold as just shooters with wornout gas systems?? So moly is on ever piston/tube in every gas system in ever semi-auto gun i own too!!!!!
