Author Topic: Question About New Brass  (Read 512 times)

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Offline Patriot_1776

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Question About New Brass
« on: August 03, 2005, 05:29:44 AM »
I was curious to know exactly what the recommended way of sizing new brass is the best.  The subject is bottleneck cartridges.  

Would it be better for the case life and accuracy to just neck size, or being its new it must be FL resized?  What is your opinion?

Thanks.

:D
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Offline beemanbeme

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2005, 05:40:28 AM »
I do as little as possible to new brass.  I test a couple to ensure that they will chamber and then I merely bump the resizer ball thru the neck to make sure they're close to round and then prime, charge, seat a bullet, and fire 'em.  The charge will be one of known accuracy if possible.  If so, I do a little bit of gross culling: if a bullet is well out of the group, I'll usually toss the case.  Then I do anything I intend to do.  Resize (usually neck size only, or what they are now calling partial resizing), trim to length, neck turn, etc.  I don't weigh cases but now would be the time if you do.

Offline Questor

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2005, 06:40:50 AM »
This is worth your time to research because the answer to the question will be a personal decision. I full-length resize all of my brass. I also reload bottleneck cases relatively few times.  This is what works for me and my reasoning is that the cartridges are for hunting or practice for hunting, so I want the cases in good condition and feeding reliably.  

Target shooters or other avid shooters may prefer just neck sizing because it generally increases the number of times you can reload a cartridge.  

As for other preparations, I just chamfer the case mouth after inspection and sizing.  This removes rough or sharp edges and I consider it a necessary step.
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Offline skb2706

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2005, 10:06:59 AM »
If you are sizing new brass typically you are only sizing the necks anyway. The body is normally minimum spec as it has not been fired....thus the body would not be 'sized'. I do like beeman does and just run the expander ball thru the neck, clean up the necks with an inside/outside chamfer tool.

Offline Redhawk1

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2005, 12:38:59 PM »
I just full length resize them and then reload them.  :D
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Offline victorcharlie

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2005, 03:07:56 PM »
I always full length resize new brass and trim if required, then neck size from then on, except for the Remington 7400 autoloader.......full length resize every time.
"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. Tolerance in the face of tyranny is no virtue."
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Offline Reloader

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2005, 06:15:32 PM »
I've tried both ways and I can't tell any difference.  I've loaded for quite a few different rifles.  Most of my groups are typically lousy anyway.  I would go with whatever routine you are most comfortable with.   :oops:
If I can make it go bang it can't be that hard to do.

Offline beemanbeme

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2005, 06:31:26 AM »
Quester is rite.  I always full length resize the ammo I am going to take hunting.  And I (carefully) cycle it thru the magazine and chamber before I say its good to go.

Offline cal sibley

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2005, 03:37:42 PM »
Most of my shooting is at the range, and I neck size all new brass simply because the quality of US brass has been mediocre in recent years.  At least my necks will be round this way.  I only neck size cartridges I use at the range or for varmint hunting.  For big game loads I prefer to full length size and feed them through the action after they are reloaded and put away to be certain they'll work in the action.  Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal
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Offline while99

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Question About New Brass
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2005, 07:07:03 AM »
I always run new brass through the sizer die, just enough to iron out any inconsistencies in the neck.  This gives all the cases the same neck tension for consistent bullet pull.  While I'm at it I check overall case length and do a light inside/outside chamfer of the case mouth to facilitate bullet seating and chambering.  I also de-burr the flash holes and mill the primer pockets to a consistent depth so that shot-to-shot ignition is uniform.