Author Topic: short bows and shooting fingers (Read 693 times)

rickyp · « **on:** August 09, 2005, 04:52:06 AM »

I have been shooting a bear whitetail II bow I have hand it since it first came out so it is about 15 to 20 years old. I have always shot with my fingers and shooting glove.
while the bow is in great shape I want to up grade my bow to one of the short ones so it will be better shooting out of my tree stands.
If I get one of the short bows can I still use my fingers or must I go to a release? I have never really used a release. I just played around with one a few times and don't really care for them.

If I must use a release how much shorter should I get the draw lenth. Right now My bear is at 30"

flintlock · « **Reply #1 on:** August 09, 2005, 05:19:49 AM »

The problem with going to a shorter bow is that the string will pinch your fingers and they are less forgiving on the way the string is released...I have the same delima...I bought my first compound in '75...it was a Bear Whitetail...I used until about 8 years ago and bought a used Mountaineer...
I think its 37-38 inches axle to axle....I'd do some research and see who still makes a finger bow...I checked a couple of years ago when I had the itch...but decided against....Its pretty easy to walk into a bow shop and say.."What bow works for finger shooters".....Then they look at you like you are a leper...LOL

I decided years ago that I wasn't going to a release or a peep or a pendulum sight or a stabilizer....Just more stuff to hang on a bow and its not really necessary...Good Luck

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 09, 2005, 05:59:06 AM »

rickyp, I was a finger shooter for many many years, but I have been shooting with a release for several years now. I have found that I am more consistent with the release than with fingers.

rickyp · « **Reply #3 on:** August 09, 2005, 10:50:25 AM »

flintlock, funny you should bring up a bear whitetail bow. this is the first bow I started with. it was all brown and the way you adjusted the poundage was remove 2 wheel and replace them in the corsoponding holes. This bow blew apart on me and my dad had it redone for me and was neve rthe same since.
Redhawk1 right now I am consistent, it is hard to find people willing to shoot with me because I keep ripping off fletchings.

WNY_Whitetailer · « **Reply #4 on:** August 09, 2005, 11:22:20 AM »

I believe that most manufacturers make bows with an A to A length long enough to shoot fingers...I know that you stated you want a shorter bow to shoot out of a treestand but what have you been doing up until now. I would look into a newer bow that you can shoot fingers with and be happy...Heck, Chuck Adams shoots fingers and you can see how successful he is...He doesn't shoot some laser beam bow either...I think he uses a Reflex Caribou which is rated at 254fps IBO. Just goes to show you that you don't need to break the bank to bring home the bacon(venison).

hunting1 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 15, 2005, 08:30:04 PM »

I am a finger shooter and will say go with axle to axle length above 40". I like my Reflex Caribou the best. Hoyt Protec is another great one. I have a Mathews Rival Pro as well that is 40", but I get some pinch with it. Release is deffinetly easier to master, but I like simple and it just works for me. Good luck! I had a Bear WT II when I was 12. Great bow at the time.