Author Topic: To bed or no?  (Read 553 times)

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Offline MIdeerhunter

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To bed or no?
« on: August 19, 2005, 03:13:38 PM »
I have a handi rifle .223, and a 12 ga. ultra slug hunter, my primary concern is the .223 because that is my target gun/plinker/varminter, well should i glass bed the foream, like the whole barrel channel?...it shoots good with the oring, but i was wondering if bedding the forened to the barrel would help with accuracy, also would this be a waste of time on my slug gun?...it is pretty accurate, and my fav. deer gun, so i would like it to be as accurate as possible...would it help or no?
New England Fireams Tracker II plus (USHD) 12 ga
.223 handi rifle
1903A3 Springfield in 6mm rem.
rem. 870 supermag
ruger 10/22
win. x-150
winchester model 88
savage 24

Offline Norseman112

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To bed or no?
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2005, 03:26:28 PM »
Hello MIdeerhunter,

I have similar thoughts as you. My .223 did not like the O ring,but it did like the temporary shims for free float and shoots great. My .243 handi likes the O ring and shoots fine.  This winter I am glass bedding both handi rifles. I feel glass bedding is more stable, but you know this is just my opinion.

Norse

Offline MIdeerhunter

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To bed or no?
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2005, 03:36:22 PM »
i just feel that the o-ring isn't a very good permanent type thing, i just feel...i may be wrong...but just my opinion that the screw could loosen under firing, and the tension could change on the barrel from the oring, or the oring could move around...i could be wrong...and i prb am...lol..but i just thought the bedding would be a more permanent type of bedding...
New England Fireams Tracker II plus (USHD) 12 ga
.223 handi rifle
1903A3 Springfield in 6mm rem.
rem. 870 supermag
ruger 10/22
win. x-150
winchester model 88
savage 24

Offline Norseman112

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To bed or no?
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2005, 04:00:22 PM »
Glass bedding would be more permanet,solid and consistant in my eyes then the O ring. You know its just to bad that H&R didn't offer thease rifles glass bedded. Even if you had to pay more and  or buy another fore end for a new barrel would be worth it to me.  


Norse

Offline quickdtoo

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To bed or no?
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2005, 07:19:13 AM »
Forend bedding tips can be found at Fred's web site and in Perklo's thread, both can be found in the FAQ.
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline Mac11700

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To bed or no?
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2005, 09:06:47 AM »
Quote from: MIdeerhunter
i just feel that the o-ring isn't a very good permanent type thing, i just feel...i may be wrong...but just my opinion that the screw could loosen under firing, and the tension could change on the barrel from the oring, or the oring could move around...i could be wrong...and i prb am...lol..but i just thought the bedding would be a more permanent type of bedding...
 
   
The thing about the o-ring...is that it isn't permanent...and can easily be changed.This is most helpful when changing multiple barrels on 1 receiver...unless you have a dedicated forearm for each barrel that's bedded...or you leave it completely set up as a completely dedicated rifle/stock combo...changing barrels won't work well... if bedded correctly...Each barrel is different enough to cause the variances in the bedding because of the location of the barrel forearm stud plate...this is the flat part that is next to the barrel where the screw attatches..The o-ring compresses and fills the notch in the forearm raising this area above the forearm recess...bedding material would be up tight around this...and different barrels won't fit into this new area of bedding......... Over time you  will need to be re-tightened the o-ring.....you can either use a-little lock-tite on it torquing it down to the correct setting using the same lock-tite as what we use for the scopemounts (blue)...or you can do as I do...and apply some teflon plumbers tape to the screws...it offers enough resistance to keep the screw from backing out as much..... The O-ring can be re-tightened until it is totally worn out or flattened...
 
I've found...if your barrel isn't shooting good with the o-ring, because of contact with the wood..then open the barrel channel a-bit...if it still doesn't shoot...experiment using a pressure point up in front of the barrel stud to out close to the muzzle...like Quickdtoo did with his Manlicher stock..This has helped a-lot of Handi's shoot much better..the pressure point doesn't have to be made permanent either...a business card thickness doubled up works well..  
   
   
   
Mac
You can cry me a river... but...build me a bridge and then get over it...

Offline Norseman112

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To bed or no?
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2005, 12:46:54 PM »
Thanks Quick,

I have the info. Thank you to Mac.

Norse

Offline MIdeerhunter

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« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2005, 04:39:43 AM »
thanks for the help guys, sorry it took so long to respond, just got back from a vacation,i think i have accurizing the handi somewhere around here...but thanks for the suggestions
New England Fireams Tracker II plus (USHD) 12 ga
.223 handi rifle
1903A3 Springfield in 6mm rem.
rem. 870 supermag
ruger 10/22
win. x-150
winchester model 88
savage 24

Offline Fred M

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To bed or no?
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2005, 05:58:37 AM »
If you want to bed the forearm and have it dedicated to that rifle. Fit the wood so you have no high spots. Wax the barrel and squeeze in some brown silicon caulking, end to end, tighten the forearm clean up the out side and let it set up for a week.

I usually put a thin wood wedge at the tip to get some uplift pressure.
To do that you have to count the revs of the bolt and index it, then tighten down on the silicon.

This is what you call a dampened free float. This can also be done with DOW Foam in a spray can. Though the silicon seems to work better. If you don't see any improvements it is easy to pull out. Let me know the results.
Fred M.
From Alberta Canada.