If you have the typical high gloss Browning finish the polyurethane is quite thick. It's fairly easy to scratch and most that are hunted will get their fair sare of scratches. They are fixable though not as easily as an oil finish. Tend to the problem as if it were an automobile finish. I use 400 grit wet or dry(used dry) to dish the finish surrounding the scratch. Steel wool(0000) is used to polish out the scratch marks from the sandpaper. Prep all the scartches on the stock. You should not be able to feel the scratch with you finger. Do not sand into the wood. Just dish the finish to provide a blending area for the new finish material. If you sand into the wood the stain used by Browning will be altered and the spot will likelty show after refinishing. Expect the area to be a slightly different color when the finish is removed(or nearly removed). This should go away when the touch up is complete. I use a rub on poly finish that I bought at the local WalMart. It is thinner than a normal polyurethane. The last note is a warning. Poly finishes use a material added to them to keep them from UV light causing deteriation. There are 2 materials used and they will alter the color enough to be noticable in some instances. I know of no way to tell which is which. If the spots show up after the repair is complete, a refinish is in order.. After all the nicks are smooth. Apply the poly with the fingers to the damaged spots only until they are fairly even with Or slightly above the surface of the stock. Use 600 grit or finer paper(I like the 1000 grit) to level the spots when they are dry. This is much like the color sanding of an automobile finish. Polish with 0000 steel fur. When the finish shows level when held at an accute angle to a strong light, steel wool the entire stock and and apply a final coat of finish. This will blend away the final traces of the damage. Don't try to apply too much poly at one time, many thin coats are better than a single thick one..
