pancovers , or trappers cap

[.17HMR]

Normally I use fibreglass pancovers but wanted to try something different this year so I was wondering if any of you have ever used underalls or these trappers cap if so were they any better than normal screen covers

[mmwb]

I'm going to try screen on my #3 traps this year. Doing a little ADC work this summer, I used polyfill under the pans and liked the results.

[Tim B]

I have always used a piece of waxpaper that has been crumpled up and then form a loose pan shaped wad with it.  It then is stuffed under the pan and the trap is bedded.  I actually make these up while i am going through traps for the last time filing off wax from the dogs ect.  I put them under the pan and then put the trap in the storage box.  when I go to set traps that eliminates one more step.  I keep a ziplock of these in my pack for remakes too.  
Tim B

[Wackyquacker]

On the big #3 coils, as opposed to #3 dbls, and #2 sq jaws, I see a great benefit when using screen.  On the smaller traps I use plugs.

When using screen it is important to use stiff screen.  Steel is for sure stiff.  Aluminum comes in different "gages" that is not marked on the packaging.  I have found that bright aluminum screen is made of wire .009" while the charcoal is .007".  This makes all the differnce in the usability and function of the screen.  

Some say why not just use steel.  My only issue with steel is that I have a number of styles of traps.  With steel I find it difficult to make a hole for the dog etc.  Most precut the steel screen for this purpose.  With aluminum screen the passage slot for the dog is easy to make on the spot...one screen fits all with aluminum. If you only have one style trap steel will work fine.  

If you go to screen door companies you can often find the steel.  I like a piece to be 5.5 x 7.5...this size is pinned by the hinge points and both jaws.  You will have to make adjustments to your liking.  Oh you will need some pan tension too.

[Tim B]

wackey,
do you use the screen so you have a bigger kill spot for them to step in on the #3's?

I have considered this but something in my gut tells me if the foot is on the edge when the animal applys weight then the trap may fire allowing the jaw to throw the foot up or maybe getting a toe catch??

when I bed with the wadded wax paper, if the foot is on the 'edge' when the trap fires then the foot is still inside the jaws.

I know how crafty you are wacky---you wouldent happen to have some good pics of bedding in progress with your methods do ya?

Thanks Tim B

[Wackyquacker]

The only reason I use screen on the big iron is to increase the kill area; maybe it would be better explained as, reducing the tracks inside of the jaws.  

If you have the pan tension set at 2.5 too 3.5 pounds.  I don't think an edge step will fire the trap, even with screen.  In fact, I have a tendency to use the lower pan tension with the screen...I don't know if this is critical.  

I cannot remember a toe caught critter or pull out last year with any of my coils.  I did loose a cat with a #4 dbl long and screen.  The increased weight of the dirt and screen made the trigger way too light.  I had filed a Miles trigger into the trap but just didn't have the tension high enough.    On #3 dbls , which are dang near identical to many #2 coils, I use plugs.  With the Miles triggers and wire to reduce the pan "wobble", things work just fine on these traps.

I also have all my coils set up with a gun-latch (night latch) type trigger.  I think this to be a good set up with high (relative to the target) pan tensions and maybe even more so with screen and the bigger iron.

I don't think I have any PICs that would be instructive on bedding.  Frankly, with the differnces in soil types, I wonder how this could be done.  For example most of the soil I trap in defies compaction adequate for a trap cap set up.

[Asa Lenon]

Over 50 years i've tried just about everything over and under the pan and have returned to plain old waxed paper where I started. Screen and other pre-cut covers are just another trapline tool to have to take care of, haul around, collect after a catch and above all keep clean like all the other equipment. Waxed paper is always clean, simple, easy to transport in a neat roll and it makes no difference how contaminated it gets after a catch as it is disposed of anyway. For those looking for a larger trap pan kill area, the waxed paper is tucked underneath the jaw on the dog side and the loose jaw on the other is placed over the paper to hold the paper down firmly.  This works for a bit larger kill area without the animal also standing on the jaw when the trap springs.  Just my opinion!  Ace

[skidway]

I used steel window screen for part of the season last year. It worked OK I guess but I went back to wax paper towards the end of the season.If you do use screen make sure they are cut to fit the way you want it to before you start setting. I may try screen again but believe a heavier gauge aluminum would be preferable to steel as it's easier to work with when I have gloves on. Also steel screen had a tendency to hump up over the pan area leaving a space between pan and screen that I didn't like. Maybe I needed more practice but didn't feel like taking the time for it.

[trappnman]

steel screens on big traps. Does it all.

polyfil under the pan on smaller traps. The polyfil has by far been the superior item to use under the pan and on small traps- I want NOTHING over the pan.

[pintaildrake]

i always use either a sycamore or oak leaf. if it aint gonna rain tp works ok too. but the wax paper you get when you buy a cookie is the best.