Lyman Deestalker cleaning help!

[New Hampshire]

Man oh man, Im getting real tired of the way I currently clean my Lyman.  Specifically Im having a hell of a time cleaning the small (about .35 cal Id guess since thats the size brush the manual says to use) powder resivoir at the bottom of the bbl.  I have been using a slotted .35 cal patch holder jag with a wet patch, jamming it down there and spinning it around to try to clean the gunk out.  But its a looooong and tough process that has me annoyed (especially since I broke a jag off in there the last time I was cleaning it) and Im wondering if there aint a better way.  The bbl is the same as the Green Mountain IBS for T/C Hawkens, so you guys chime in too if you can.  Sp is there a better method, or must I simply toil?
Brian

[D.E.C]

I use a standard Q-TIP. Dip it in solvent, push it in the hole, after removing the nipple ( or vent liner for flint locks) spin it around several times then repeat with a dry Q-TIP until clean. Lube with a Q-TIP dipped in Ballistol. Seems to work, usually takes 2 or 3 Q-TIPS. Hope this helps.

[slayer]

I shoot a T/C Hawken and Renegade, amongst other muzzleloaders, and here is the way I clean mine and I assume you meen at the end of the day?

When I get home, I pull the nipple, rod and wedge pin and pull the barrel. I put it in a tub of hot soapy water and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Then with long gloves I swish it around really good, then I take it in and out and dump water thru it. After that I I drain the tub and re-fill with just plain hot water and do the same. I clean the rod and nipple seperately. After that, I clean the barrel bore many times with T/C No.13 bore cleaner and dry patches every other patch, after the patches come out clean, I put a T/C Bore Butter patch down the bore for a coating protection. For the outside of the barrel, I use No. 13 cleaner, and then after that I use a silicone rag for a top coat to protect it.

It really works well this way and has for about 20 years Jack.

[lonewolf5347]

I find cleaning my sidelock are simple , I first remove the lock then pull the wedge pin pour hot water with dawn dishwahing down the barrel,followed with a brass brush,then remove the nipple or vent liner .I then run a couple of patches down the bore with butch's solvent  add a well scraper to the rod and a patch .I then use a couple of q tips with solvent ,clean up the nipple or vent liner, oil @ replace.I then take a tooth brush with hot soapy water to the lock,blow dry and oil and replace all parts with barrel into stock,teflone patch down the bore and store maybe 20 min: total time  :-D  

[Slamfire]

Patent breeches can be a pain in the fundament. I don't know of any way to get into them other than the method you are using. Perhaps a cotton mop made for the .38 would stay attached to the rod better, being a twisted wire with the mop on the outside. What powder are you using? The BP substitutes are harder to clean than real black. Run the mops through a washing machine to clean up the residue.

[New Hampshire]

Hey Slamfire!
Im using Goex BP.  Ive used Pyrodex select in the past, and your right it can be tougher cleaning.  Ill pick up a .38 cal. bore mop and give that a try.
Other than this "annoyance" Im pretty impressed how the little gun is shooting.  After switching to Goex and .018" patches and then running a patch between shots Im getting 3/4" at 50 yards, and I tried a pretty quick benched 3 shot group at 100 yards netted a 3 1/2" to 4" (roughly) group..........mmmmmmmm can already taste venison   .
Brian

[R J Kellems]

Tried using carburator cleaner in a spray can, similar to the can that W D 40 comes in, stuck the little red straw in the barrel of my .50 T/c Hawkin.
I have to say it got the gun cleaner and in less time and cleaning patches than any other cleaner I have tried.

It works good too for modern fire arms, to clean those places where you can't get a cleaning cloth

RJ

[Winter Hawk]

Carburetor cleaner?  I'll have to try that.  I recommend that, before loading, one cleans the oil out of the powder reservoir.  It probably doesn't make much difference at the range, but in a hunting situation it's different.  I went out with my boy earlier last month, ostensibly looking for a deer.  I carried the GPR, and we were out most of the day.  When I got back to the truck I tried shooting the charge out.  There was a fizzling in the pan, not even a real flash, and nothing.  I picked the vent, recharged the pan and tried again.  This time I had a nice flash, but still no bang.  I followed this process twice more before she went off.  I believe the oil in the reservoir had contaminated the powder charge over time, as I have never had this happen before.  Glad I didn't see the buck of a lifetime!

-WH-

[Swamp Yankee]

NH,
   I pull the barrel and nipple and stick the breech end into a bucket of hot soapy boiling water. With a cleaning jag and a patch I plung the barrel so that I have hot water coming out the barrel with each stroke. Durring the process I will run a powder well scrapper down and give it a few turns too.I will follow with a bucket of clean boiling water and plunge the barrel again. At this point I'll remove the barrel and turn it upside down to drain the water and then quickly run a few dry patches to get any remaining moisture. With the barrel on it's side I will run a patch full of bore butter down and coat the outside as well, heck I even coat the wood when I'm done. I have always used this method and have never had a problem.
I hope it was of some help........Jim