Need help fitting a H&R barrel to frame

[kessssssssssss]

Ok i have read the barrel fitting 101 in faq but im still having a prob

here is the deal
i just got my 22 jet barrel and i have my H&R topper frame
welll when i started the barrel wouldnt even close (no suprize)
so i went and put the pivit pin on the barrel back until the barrel fell in and would enguage with the shelf its still kind of tight to close but it will enguage and is almost 1/8" on the shelf

but the problem is i have a small gap between the barrel and the breech
i have shimed the pivot pin and the gap will not go tight to the breech

im am lost now what to do should i take more from the pivot pin area on the lug and then rehone the rear locking shelf on the lug ?

If anyone who has fitted these barrels please point me in the right direction i have 2 jet barrels and need to get them, mounted on these frames
let me know if you can help me

respond or email me at

lovinmystealth@aol.com

chris  

[cheatermk3]

1-I am not a gunsmith nor am I very good with tools, so the following are my guesses.

2-Toppers are a bit different from the newer models in that they have more metal under and at the sides of the breech.  Did you check to see if this fit was part of the problem?

3-If you've been removing metal from the pivot area of the underlug, and this allowed the rifle to close, how can removing any more metal do anything but loosen this fit even more?

4-How big of a gap are we talking about?  Will the action close on a .003" feeler gauge and still let you pull it out? I believe a gap of up to .002" is still acceptable.  If you can close it on a .002" feeler, but it is too tight for the gauge to be pulled out, you're probably OK.

5-If you have removed too much metal from the underlug don't feel too bad.  Do a aearch on epoxy with Fred M as the author for his excellent remedy to this problem.

6-Someone with more knowlege and possibly some experience, will undoubtedly chime in pretty soon.

7-Welcome to the forum and...Good Luck!

[Fred M]

22jetmag

so i went and put the pivit pin on the barrel back until the barrel fell in and would enguage

I really don't understand what you did. It sounds as if you worked on the pivot pin or what is called the hinge pin. This is bad news if you did.

You need to press out the hinge pin and put in a new one. All the fitting is done on the underlug at the hinge pin seat. This is done one thou at the time.

Before the barrel locks up tight you have to check the fit of the standing breech and the rear barrel face to make sure that the perfectly fit together.

This is done by smoking the barrel face and removing tight spots with a flat mill file. Check the ejector so it is not sticking out past the barrel face.
Remove the ejector when doing the fitting, because the strong ejector sprin will hold things apart.

im am lost now what to do should i take more from the pivot pin area on the lug and then rehone the rear locking shelf on the lug ?

It seams you have removed too much metal from the upper seat curve this will drop the barrel and leave a gap on top of the breech.

Put a wood wedge under the underlug at the hinge pin and see if the gap closes. You must get a tight fit before you do anything to the latch shelve.
!/8" latch engagement is enough to hold the action shut.

Once you have a good fit at the breech you can then fill the play at the hinge pin with Devcon Steel Putty as per my instruction.

[kessssssssssss]

i didnt do anything to the reciever or the hinge pin area all the work i did was to the underlug on the barrel  nothing was touch on the reciever
when i started the barrel wouldnt even close or fit it was a super tight fit so i worked the underlug were the pivot pin rides down until the barrel actually enguaged but now there is a gap in the breech to the barrel if you take a pop can thickness will slide tight in this gap and its straight not touching in the center and gaped at the top just a straight gap

i know my ejector is past the barrel breech even when i stick a empty brass casing in there it still wont pull in tight i was thinking the ejector was holding it out , so i have to file the ejector down also ? to make it flat against the breech of the barrel

i know i didnt mess this up i get good enguagement but there is the pop can thickness gap that i cant move back but there wasnt anything that was said about removing the ejector to do this fitting or possibly haveing to file the ejector

chris

[Fred M]

Theroretically the ejector should be flush with the barrel face. But you can't see that when the gun is closed. To make sure you mustremove the ejector and the spring and do any fitting that is needed.

Often the ejector sticks out when you have dirt in the recess. The ejector always sticks out when the gun is open. You can push it in with a piece of wood to see if it goes flush.

[kessssssssssss]

well i tried the ejector and when its cocked or the ejector is enguaged the ejector is sticking out by the distance the gap is , so this might be it. is it bad news to take it out just drift the pins out , im going to try this just might be it

thanks chris

[trotterlg]

If you have an even gap then my bet is that the barrel is hitting the frame on the way down, this makes the barrel close tight but will leave a gap at the rear.  Just for fun take out the ejector, it is easy and it won't get in the way of fitting the barrel that way.  I think you will still find the same problem.  Take a candle and smoke the sides and rear of the barrel with it, then put it in the frame and close it, open it and take it out and see where the smoke is gone, you will know where it is hitting.  an eigth inch is plenty on the rear latch.  Larry

[kessssssssssss]

ok here is the deal

I took the ejector out and then reinstalled the barrel still have the same gap it is a piece of pop can thickness still , the gap is the same all the way around the barrel so its square atleast the gap i was thinking it was bottoming out but will have to try the smoking the whole thing i did the shelf and the 1/8" is pretty close but there is one thing i did see that is when the barrel closes in the frame you get the click of the ejector setting and then the barrel release setting but on this barrel combo the ejector button is loose it will have play going up , or you can giggle it up there is tension going down like releasing it but there is play up

I have a topper 157 22 hornet i compared the release button to and when the barrel shuts on it the release is no play up or down
so i was thinking maybe the shelf need more taken off it because i would think the release lever should be fully in the up position when the barrel is fully enguaged right

let me know what you guys think of that

thanks for the help so far guys any more info helps alot

chris  :wink:

[trotterlg]

No!  The release lever should never be fully up, when it is it means it has run out of travel and the latch is not fully engaging the barrel shelf.  If your barrel is tight with a gap then it is probably resting on the frame  at the bottom of the barrel.  Also, if there is an even gap top to bottom at the breach then the distance from the breach to the hinge is too small and needs to be shimmed.  Larry