Annealing Brass

[tcshooter52]

Has anyone heard of using a lead pot to anneal brass? It sounds like a good method rather than using a propane torch but, must keep water bucket well away from the lead pot.

Thanks, John

[MikeP]

Yep, it's a great alternative to the direct flame method. It appears to me to provide a much more controllable product.

[Steve P]

I have never heard of using a lead pot to anneal brass.  I use my RCBS Trim mate.  Made up platform that uses allen head screw with flatwasher epoxied to it.  primer pocket fits perfect over allen head, brass rotates, torch heats brass, brass gets knocked over into water.  Sit in the garage with dim lamp.  Easy to see the brass as it starts to change color.   I can do a hundred an hour pretty easy.  Lots cheaper than Ken Light's annealer.

Would be interested in hearing about other methods also.

Steve    

[Reed1911]

I have Ken Light's machine. It is not a good option for a guy that needs to anneal 100 cases, 5 totally different sized calibers (i.e. none based on or close to each other in case size) twice a year. But if are doing any type of rifle match shooting where you shoot 300+ rounds a month it will certainly be well worth it.

For those that don't know what we are talking about, Ken Light makes an annealing machine the consist's of a rotating disk that the cartridges set in, and while the disk revolves, the cases spin as well. (Think of Earth's orbit) as they spin on one side of the machine are two propane torch holders that you mount and adjust however you need them to properly anneal the case you are working with. Great machine, quality you don't expect, but they are not cheap. I think around 300 for the machine with one disk, and an extra 50-75 for the extra disks. Each case head takes a different disk.

[Reloader]

I just put them in the shell holder from a Lee case trimmer and spin them with an electric screw driver or drill.

[Dave in WV]

I use Hornady's annealing kit. It works great.

[clodbuster]

Do not anneal the case heads as they will more easily stretch after sofening.

[Reed1911]

Good point Clodbuster, Before you do any annealing you REALLY need to read up on it as it is a little more complicated than it seems at first. It's not hard at all, but you do need to know about over annealing and under annealing and where on the case to allow the heat to build. A full article here is a little beyond the scope, I'll be happy to help anyone with questions via the forums, PM, or e-mail.

[John Traveler1]

Yes, it's easy to effectively aneal cartridge cases using a lead melting pot.

You crank up the heat control, and let the melt come to temperature.

Wear a glove to protect your fingers.

Dip the case mouth into powdered graphite or light oil (available at auto supply stores) and tap on a bench to remove excess.  Dip the case into the melt past the shoulder and hold a few seconds.  After removing the case, tap on the bench again to remove excess lead and drop into a container of water.  Dry in sun or with a hair drying.

The typical heat treat colours appear on the case neck and shoulder.

This method works as well as using a propane torch, but without the fire hazard or propane.

[willysjeep134]

Maybe somebody here can explain this to me here. I'm no metalurgist, but I do know a bit about the properties of steel. I don't really know jack about brass though. To anneal steel you need to heat it up to nonmagnetic red, then let it slowly cool. Blacksmiths would heat up the peice to be annealed then burry it in a box of ashes and let it cool. This would allow the structure of the steel to return to a soft state. To then re harden the steel, making it more brittle, the smith would heat it up to nonmagnetic red again the quench the steel locking the structure in place as it is when hot and making it much harder, although more brittle.

It would seem that if you attempted to anneal a piece of steel like a piece of brass you would end up with a very hard brittle peice of steel. I assume qwenching hot brass will lock it in a softer state, but that is completely opposite of how steel behaves. Am I making a correct assumption? Also, has anybody ever tested to see if the quenching of brass is really necisairy?

[Reed1911]

Right and wrong. Brass and copper unlike steel must be worked to become hard. By heating it to proper tempature, like steel, you remove those stresses induced. There are two reasons to quench; 1) to make it easy to handle quicker 2) to prevent the heat from moving to those areas you do not want annealed (body and most important the head).

[willysjeep134]

The process makes a lot more sense now, thanks.

[SGTUSMC]

I also anneal my own brass, mostly .308, what I've done is bought an old record player from a thrift store for 5 bucks and ground off the spindle. Next I cut a coffee can in half and glued a washer to the bottm of it that fits my .308 case just right.... Then just fill the can half way up the case with DISTILLED WATER...I use distilled water so I dont introduce anything into the brass(minerals,flouride,etc) and fill it half way up so heat doesnt reach the base..I use a propane torch for the heating and use the tip of the torch to knock the case over once it's reached its proper temp/color. This is just another way to do it..Hope this helps. Semper Fi

[Hiker]

What's the least expensive method to check or know temperature is correct during the annealing process?

[Steve P]

What's the least expensive method to check or know temperature is correct during the annealing process?

Buy heat temperature wax at an automotive paint store or welding shop.  I don't know the exact temperature to get, but if you put it on the brass and the brass reaches temperature x, it changes color and you are done.

Auto shops are suppose to use it to keep from overheating frames when straightening.  I have personally never used it for brass, but have seen it used when working on cars.  Looks like a paint crayon use in marking timber, lumber, etc.

Steve