Quarter scale Howitzer questions,

[john pike]

1- i realy dont want to paint this, has anyone done the beeswax finish.
i read you smear it on, and cook it it the wifes oven (when shes gone)
at 400 degrees,
2-does this temper the 1018 steel? damiging it?

has anyone done it? can you send me as pic?

2- trunions,

i really dont want to weld them. how deep can i drill and still be safe for firing? the specs on the howitzer is in the last post with the pic.

can i drill out my trunions for a 1.4X20 allen,
press fit the trunion, with locktight and bolt them in?? with locktight.

i realy bite at welding, and i dont want to wreck the finish.

if i was painting it id weld it, file it, bondo it smooth,,

johnp

[Cat Whisperer]

400 dF shouldn't affect 1018 at all.  

You might want to take it to a professional welder to have it mig welded - there are some really good welders that do the stuff I MUST have good lookin' (and I weld reasonably well).


1/4-20 or 1/4-28 should work well too.

[Double D]

It's a matter of safety.  The Trunnions on ae cannon are what keep the barrel from becoming a projectile.  They bear the force of recoil and they need to be strongly attached...Weld them or have them welded. Your safety and the safety of those around you demand it.

[john pike]

It's a matter of safety.  The Trunnions on ae cannon are what keep the barrel from becoming a projectile.  They bear the force of recoil and they need to be strongly attached...Weld them or have them welded. Your safety and the safety of those around you demand it.

YUP, the little squrril in the back of my mind kept tellin me the same,
ill weld it,

johnp

[GGaskill]

The carbon content of 1018 is too low for it to harden from heat treating (one reason why it is readily weldable.)  

If you have a rosebud torch, you could heat blue it.  And the color really is blue, not the black that modern hot dip "bluing" gives.  And other colors are available depending on temperature.

[CU_Cannon]

You are doing some great looking work!

I got the drawings from GGaskill almost a year ago and still havenÂ’t got to it yet.  Too many other projects found me in the meantime.

[john pike]

The carbon content of 1018 is too low for it to harden from heat treating (one reason why it is readily weldable.)  

If you have a rosebud torch, you could heat blue it.  And the color really is blue, not the black that modern hot dip "bluing" gives.  And other colors are available depending on temperature.

After torching the barrel what needs to be done?


and your right i just tried it, i spun it on my lathe slow, 130rpm
took my torch,  to it, almost got a nice gold,  going but stayed in one spot too long,whoops, plue,,,purple,
dark blue,,,,,COOL,,,

thanks
johnp

[GGaskill]

As you saw, it happens by itself.  The surface just needs to be clean and oil free.

[john pike]

As you saw, it happens by itself.  The surface just needs to be clean and oil free.

oh oh, i went to far, it went back to a light blue,

how do i go back to dark?

do i have to re-sand it after it cools off?
or can i just reheat it back to dark?

johnp

[GGaskill]

You have to polish it back to silver and start over.  No limit to how many times you can do it, though.

[john pike]

You have to polish it back to silver and start over.  No limit to how many times you can do it, though.

OH FUN,,,reminds me of when i anodized aluminum and messed up,,,grin,,


practice,,practice,,,,,thanks,

johnp