Trunion buttons

[john pike]

just finished up turning the trunion buttons,

heres two pics,

there just barely pressed in, ill pull them and JBweld them tonite.

then do a real weld tomorrow...im not looking foreward to it.

what do u use to grind weld?
will those little stones mounted on shafts do it?

i know a file wont.

im going to polish all the parts, barrel,and trunions before mounting,
and wrap the barrel with alot of tin-foil and then duct-tape,
then tin-foil again. and then duct tape, again.

cut out the trunion holes, for welding.
hopefully itl keep the splatter from wrecking my barrel.

im a messy stick welder,

johnp

[Powder keg]

Lookin good John!!!

[john pike]

Lookin good John!!!

THANKS,
im sweating the weldiing,,

what diamiter were the real weels, i gotta find some scrap oak,

johnp

[GGaskill]

I strongly recommend not using any JB Weld or other adhesive in the joint.  They will vaporize during the welding process and contaminate the weld and cause porosity which will weaken the end product.  Use a large C-clamp over the ends of the trunnions to hold them in place while welding.

Full size wheels were 38" in diameter.  I can send plans for carriage if you like.

[john pike]

I strongly recommend not using any JB Weld or other adhesive in the joint.  They will vaporize during the welding process and contaminate the weld and cause porosity which will weaken the end product.  Use a large C-clamp over the ends of the trunnions to hold them in place while welding.

Full size wheels were 38" in diameter.  I can send plans for carriage if you like.

O.K.
glad i read that, before i glued them up,

and yes please send the plans, same adress,
THANK YOU,
FOR ALL YOUR HELP,

JOHNP

[Cat Whisperer]

At least SOMEONE is reading in detail your post, thanks George.

Suggest first - get someone to MIG weld the trunions - clean, smooth, good lookin' welds.

If not available and if you're going to do it with stick welding - practice on something 3 or 4 times until you get the weld looking GOOD.  Then do the real one.

[john pike]

At least SOMEONE is reading in detail your post, thanks George.

Suggest first - get someone to MIG weld the trunions - clean, smooth, good lookin' welds.

If not available and if you're going to do it with stick welding - practice on something 3 or 4 times until you get the weld looking GOOD.  Then do the real one.

if i cant find smene to mig weld it and do it myself,

what can i use to clean up the welds, and smth them out?
will one of those dremal stones d it, or is the weld to strong?

jonp

[Cat Whisperer]

Dremmel works, but MIG is MUCH better!

[GGaskill]

If you can't find someone to MIG the joint, try to find someone to TIG it.

and yes please send the plans, same adress,

Check your Private Messages.

[Wraiths]

Anti-spatter sprays work pretty good.  
 http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?prod_id=160872&cm_mmc=1hd.com2froogle-_-product_feed-_-D25X-_-160872&srccode=cii_14110944&cpncode=12-1301822-2

[Cat Whisperer]

Anti-spatter sprays work pretty good.    ....

Learn something every day.  I wonder what's in it - silicone?  


Wraiths - WELCOME to the board!


.

[Terry C.]

Most modern anti-spatter products do not contain silicone (at least the ones I use don't).

You can get anti-spatter in spray cans, liquid (brush-on), or gel. Any local welding supply store should have it in stock.

For what you want to do, get the aerosol. The liquid is for areas to large for spray cans. The gel is for dipping nozzles.

Apply it just as you would spray-on cooking oil (PAM)*. A thin coat is all you need. Cover all areas that might be hit by spatter.

With the aerosol, you can weld immediately. The arc will burn the anti-spatter away from the weld area.


* Do not eat the anti-spatter.

[kappullen]

John,

I use a disc sander but you have to keep the disc moving or she'll dig in.
I work it from the center of the weld tword the barrel, and trunnion and feather it out at the finished surfaces.

Here's one I did that way.



Your tube looks great. The trunnions look a tad small for the gun though.
I believe the trunnions were generally bore size on cannons..Howitzers may be a different story.

Kap

[Powder keg]

I made the trunions on my 1/4 Mtn. howitzer .750 and the rimbases were 1" I think they were a bit diffrent from scale. But I had a press for that size trunion straps.

[john pike]

John,

I use a disc sander but you have to keep the disc moving or she'll dig in.
I work it from the center of the weld tword the barrel, and trunnion and feather it out at the finished surfaces.

Here's one I did that way.



Your tube looks great. The trunnions look a tad small for the gun though.
I believe the trunnions were generally bore size on cannons..Howitzers may be a different story.

HOW LONG IS THAT CANNON IN THE WINDOW,,,,,

Thats a nice cannon, hw big is it?


the smallest diam of my trunions are .50 my bore size is .5o

the largest diam,,closest t the cannon is 1.0
and the button pressed in is .5 sinking 1/8 into the cannon

johnp

Kap

[GGaskill]

For a US mountain howitzer in one quarter scale, the trunnions should be .675" in diameter (2.7/4) and the rimbases (the larger part next to the barrel) should be 1.050" in diameter (4.2/4).  Since end mills are rare in 1.050" diameter, 1" for the rimbases is a compromise that I make, too.  Half inch trunnions look strange to my eye but they will be hard to see once the barrel is mounted on a carriage and should be plenty strong for a half inch bore piece.

[Cannonmaker]

John,
   As it was said, Antisplater works real good,  it smells like Pam.  The splatter cleans right up.  I use a Mig when welding the trunnions.  Don't know what steel your using, you may have to preheat.  
I use a Air tool, Die Grinder with small grinding stones to remove the execess weld,  I then polish with the 2" or 3" Scotch pads starting with course, and ending up with the fine pad.  I often will use a 3" pad on a 2" backing to have more flex for the radis.