KNIVES

[PeterCartwright]

I recently bit the bullet and bought a Bark River Bravo 1.  It's pricey, but what a knife!  I won't bore you with the story of this knife (as it's listed by every one who sells the thing).  It's certainly a contender for a "do all" knife.  I've used mine to split rock hard, seasoned Red Oak (using a baton) and then used the same knife to slice tomatoes paper thin.  The A2 steel is heat treated by a master.  While it's a beautiful knife, its made to be used hard without complaining.  Of course, any knife asked to do many tasks must compromise somewhere and that's also true of the Bravo 1, but all in all, I think the Bark River folks got this one right (with an able assist from the Marine Corps Recon boys).

PC

[Couger]

What kind of knife would you consider too be a one choice, all around, do all?? Blessings

All-around do-all knife?  No such critter exists for me, but if one did it would be a fixed knife at least 4 1/2 - inches long.

Its really not hard nor too much in weight to carry two, three, or four different knives for whatever use each excels at.

For elk and big game hunting I'm anxious to try my new Cold Steel Pendelton Hunter on something my tag is attached to.  I also have Gerber Fatty serrated and a Forschner paring knives in a survival kit I put together.  And who likes to get along without a tiny pocket folder when the need arises?

If I was a cop or soldier, I'd want a knife the same size and length as an USMC Kabar, but preferably instead in the form of a Cold Steel Trailmaster or Recon Scout (with at least a 7 1/2in blade).

[Couger]

If I could have two it would be a 12" Cold Steel Kuhkri  and a 4" Voyager folder.   Those two are what I use just about every trip to the hunting camp - they are easy to carry and very effective.

I'm going to have to check out both of those!  Actually I've been hearing somewhat frequently over the last year how folks who have them or have used them like kukuri-style knives.

[Swamp Rat]

I do not believe one edged tool for everything is possable.  I love my KOA Yukon and use it for most eveything but a heavy chopper it is not, but that is why I have a Riflemans Hawk. If I had to SERE/E&E in the woods dealing with only basic survival and was limited to one I think it would have to be CS SRK.

[kynardsj]

I own way too many knives and inherited more when my father passed away. The best I have ever carried, yeah I know it's Chinese, is a Spyderco Byrd. Great steel and dependability. I was so impressed with the black one I carry that I bought another in a two blade design. Black one every day and both of them when I'm in the woods.

[WD45]

Knives are like lays tater chip... nobody can have just one

[Terry1]

Helle "eggen". Same concept as a mora, but built beefier. Other than that, its a Leatherman "wave" or Victorinox "one handed trekker". Either combo handles all I need it to.

[SHOOTALL]

If it has to do everything and that was the ? Then it would have to work everywhere , fair ?
A top of the line K-BAR seems like a good choice , not ideal for every thing but can get by in most cases

[zeke08]

I would have to pick my Gerber BMF its a little big but if i just could take one I'd rather have too much knife than not enough! I have used and abused this knife for close to 15yrs everything from tracking schools, EOD schools, camping, hunting and not one time has it let me down! I really hate they stopped making these knives.

[kyelkhunter3006]

Here's another vote for the Swedish Mora's from Frosts.  They have a ton of different options, they use VERY good steel, whether you choose the 1095 High carbon steel or the Sandvic 12c27 stainless, and they are easy to sharpen.  They are very economically priced, you can afford to have several tucked away.  Honestly, a 4" blade is enough for just about any situtation.  Use the knife to make bigger tools for survival situations.

I just picked up a Ka-Bar FINS drop point knife last month.  I saw it in Tactical Knives magazine and immediately fell in love with the design.  4 7/8" drop point, out of slightly thicker than 1/8" D-2 steel.  I didn't buy one until I could see it and handle it, so I was in TN and stopped at Smoky Mountain Knife Works to check it out.  It left with me.  It's a stout piece of metal.

[reno2507]

Have to x3 on the CS SRK. I've wasted alot of money on some exotic steels, but this knife fits all of my needs as well as can be expected. I have the carbonV, but I've heard a lot of good things about SK5 as well. Stainless? Not so much...

[mechanic]

I've spent a lifetime accumulating knives and you ask a question like this?  Makes my head hurt to think about it. 

[pab1]

The Ka-Bar BK2 is an excellent knife. It was designed by Ethan Becker. They were originally manufactured and sold by his company, Becker Knife & Tool (BK&T) and now made by Ka-Bar. The BK2 can be picked up for around $50 and are equal to knives costing several times that. I like the design of this knife so much that I bought 3 of them. 

[Empty Quiver]

By survival knife, I take that to not be a fighting knife. A good solid multi tool is the epitome of survival knife. Saw small limbs for a shelter and building snares. Knife will open any critter god put on the planet, cut rope, whittle a spear, you name it. Tools might get the outboard going again or put your eyeglasses back together, or fix a bad battery cable connection on the truck.  Can't chew open the tin cans but the can opener will make short work of it.  These are some of the most likely survival situations that a big ol' USMC KaBar just isn't appropriate for. We don't live in Tarzans world and can't solve our problems with Tarzans tool kit.

If a multi tool does not fit your defination of knife, then the Ka Bar is as good as any and better than many. An arguement could be made for a machete, but that ain't exactly a knife.

[kyelkhunter3006]

My problem with the multi-tool as a main survival tool is strength and durability.  I've broken three in the past two years.  Two Gerbers and a Buck Whitaker.  Both of the Gerber's broke at the locking mechanism while using the knife blades to cut tough rubber material with heavy downward pressure.  The lock bar actually broke completely off on both of them.

The Buck started to seperate at the hinge on the folding blade, until the blade was very wobbly.  It won't tighten up.

I'm convinced that part of this is due to inferior steel that's made in China and Gerber production isses in China. I have a Gerber Military Tool (not a well known model) multi tool from the early 90's that's made in the USA and it's TOUGH.  The knife blade takes an edge and holds it.  The downfall on that particular one is that the handles are uncomfortable as heck, the knife blade doesn't lock, and the screwdriver bits are very short.

I've been disappointed with the Gerber multi-tools for some time now.  They just aren't as good as they used to be.  I know many people who have broken them.  And it's not just one model.  I've seen broken examples of each one.

I've gone back to the original-- Leatherman.  I've had several of these and they have all performed WAY above any expectation I've had.  I've never broken one and I've never seen a broken one.  I currently carry the Skeletool with the 420HC main blade.  I don't like 420HC steel, but that's the only one that was in-stock at the store that day.  Since I normally carry another folding knife, sometimes two, it's not a big deal.  I love it because it's got a pocket clip and doesn't have to be worn in a belt sheath.

I always carry a fixed blade knife whenever I'm outdoors, along with the Leatherman and couple of folders in pocket or pack.  If I had to pick just one, it'd be a fixed blade knife.  No worries about breaking or failing at the wrong time.

[Frank46]

I'm new to this forum. I find that choices of knives are what each person finds that works best for him or her. I have an old
USN pilots survival knife that I aquired while serving in the USN. Its about 40 years old and in remarkably good shape. Paid a whopping $10 for it about 1966. However I would also not throw away a swedish bayonet thhat was origionally used on the swedish service rifles such as the 1896 and 1938 rifles. I found one at a gun show for ten bucks. Good steel, good scabbard, no scabbard holder. Found some 2" wide nylon strapping and made a sheath for the scabbard. Coated the scabbard with an epoxy adhesive overlapped the nylon sheathing and stiched up the sides and bottom and then made a loop for a 2" belt. The bayo is razor sharp and actually can be sharpened on the back side on the top of the blade. Another
bayonet that can be used as a survival knife cheaply is the spanish one for the cetme series of rifles. Put a good edge on it and you have a decent knife. I have exactly two true "hunting knives" one is a german puma "buddy" that I've had close to 40 years. The other is a cheap japanese drop hunter. Either one has served me well. M16 bayo's are on the market for about $25 or so. Not the best steel in the world, but will work if finances are tight. then there are the old hickory butcher type knives cheap, easy to change blade shape by careful grinding and easy to sharpen. One thing I find missing is that no one has mentioned about keeping them sharp. I have a selection of various sharpening stones and that is what I use. So next time you hit the gun show, check out some of the bayonets and stay away from the fantasy warrior stuff for the most part they are poorly designed except to kill people. Sometimes the high priced stuff was designed to attract the buyer and has little utility use. I've made knives from broken pieces of guillotine hacksaws that were designed to cut pipe. Since where the teeth are its usually the most tempered portion of the blade. They make great knives. Perhaps we should have a section "survival knives on the cheap" Frank

[SHOOTALL]

start the topic it sounds like a good one