I keep Getting Squibs.

[NYbowhunter43]

First off, I’m still fairly new to reloading and I am still learning.

The problem I am having is reloading for a Ruger Super Red hawk in 454 casull with a 7.5” barrel.

I am using Lee dies including a factory crimp die. Win. 296 powder, Win small rifle primers, CCI 400 Primers & Fed 205 primers, 275 Grain Flat Nose Lead bullets.
Previous to using the 296 I was using 2400 powder with out any major problems other then very dirty.

I made up the first batch with the 296 using the Win. Small rifle Primers. I head off the range. I start shooting the first few and then I get a squib. I keep shooting and a continue to get squibs and I’m getting squibs that are not making it out of the barrel. I ask around and I get told it’s the primers. I look in some different books and I see the Fed 205’s and CCI 400’s so I get some and try them. I first try the Fed 205’s same thing bullet stuck in the barrel. I try the CCI’s and bam they seem to work. I come make up a bunch to try out. I made some using 27.5 gr. Of 296 and some using 27.0 gr. Of 296. I also made up a bunch of 27.0 gr 296 with Horaday XTB bullets. Off to the range I go. Same problem with the lead bullets. I try the copper bullets and bam they all go off no problems at all.

What I am really having a problem understanding is how can a primer go off and move a bullet it to the barrel and not set the charge off?

Thanks in advance for your help and advise.
Mike

[Zcarp2]

How tight a crimp are you putting on these?  I've been told that this may effect powder ignition.  

Lead bullets slide a lot easier than the copper ones.  They may be providing enough back pressure to ignite the powder.

Zcarp2

[PaulS]

Check your load data.
27 grains of 296 is a 7 to 10 grain reduction from maximum loads. 296 and H110 are powders that have a caution to NEVER reduce loads more than three percent. Bring you load up to a grain below maximum and your problem will go away.

PaulS

[Steve P]

Try loading your gun with one cartridge at a time.  Still getting the squib loads?

Heavy recoiling rounds have a nasty habit of raising havoc with unfired rounds still in the cylinder.  They can cause the bullets to pull out of crimps and they can actually de-seat a properly seated primer.

Here are a few things to try......

Make sure your primer pockets are clean, flashholes polishing media free, and primers seated to uniform depth.  Lee makes a great priming tool to do this.  Mine of pressed in 10s of thousands of primers without a problem.  (I'm glad they didn't paint them red)

Take a sized brass and one of the styrofoam trays that you get meat in at the grocery store.  Push the sized brass into the foam and cut out some discs.  If they get stuck in the brass, stick a needle or pin thru the primer flash hole and push them out.  (i have brass made up with drilled out flash holes and use a nail, head inside the case, to push the discs out.)  After you have sized, primed, and put powder in the case, put the disk on top of the powder and push it down with a pencil.  Then seat your bullet.  This disc will uniformly hold the powder next to the flashhole.

Set your dies to seat the bullet in one step, then readjust to crimp in a second step.   Lots of dies are "made to" seat and crimp in the same step.   The crimp is made to hold the bullet, the dies is trying to push it.  Kind of working against itself huh...  Seat the bullet in one step with the crimp grove, cannelure, etc about one hair's width above the top of the brass.  After you have seated all the bullets (moving in the belling a little is ok), then readjust your die to do a GOOD uniform roll crimp into that grove or cannelure.  You will see the bullet is no longer a hair's width from the top of the brass, but several hairs width.  Do you have a nice ring around the entire case?  if not, readjust your die a little, or spin your round in the shell holder 180 degrees and run into the die again.

OK, you have clean primer pockets, clean flashholes, powder retainers in place, and a good roll crimp.  You should be good to go with WW296 loads.

Good Luck,

Steve  

[Graybeard]

I suspect the ONLY thing that can give you a squip round in the true sense of the word which it sounds like you are getting is a contaminated or bad primer. Some thing in your process is killing your primers. Since I don't know your loading process I can't know what. But getting some case lubes inside the case can do it as can any kind of oil or solvent. Might not be the case transfering it. Might be you're getting it on the primers before or during the prming process. Without know what your process is I cannot say when or where. But your primers are at fault.

[ricciardelli]

I believe your loads are not heavy enough and you are not using an aggressive enough crimp...

W-296 From 31.5 grains to 37.0 grains
 CCI-400 Primer

[Lloyd Smale]

I posted a reply allready to your question on the 6 gunner board but just in case you didnt read it dont try 37 grains of 296 in your ruger youll need a hammer and a punch to get the brass out.

[Castaway]

All good advice and your answer probably lies in what has been said; however, there is another possible cause.  If you are tumbling deprimed brass, it's possible media is caught in the flash hole and either crushing the primer as it's seated or blocking a full flash when struck by the firing pin.

[Redhawk1]

Could it be a powder problem?

[Sgtshultzy1]

I think you should stop smoking while you reload.  Maybe the ashes from your cigarettes is falling into the cases and causing a problem.

[myronman3]

first off,  you are leaving out way too much information.  EXACTLY what bullet (make and weight) are you using for each load?  

from freedoms arm's web site ...

TIP #1:Magnum primers are recommended for reloading for the 454 Casull.TM
Magnum primers perform more reliably at temperatures below zero degrees F.. Magnum primers will most often give more uniform velocities in magnum pistol loads using slow powders, and heavy bullets. More importantly the heavier construction of the primer cup prevents metal flow back, and provides a more positive ignition. Remember to always seat the primer below the case head to prevent recoil from firing the cartridge while not aligned with the barrel. ...

get out your reloading manuel, and follow it.  dont deviate from it,  stick with the information provided.     i suspect your problem is a relatively simple one,  a little reading and you should be on the right track.  taking shortcuts or speed reading  and reloading do not mix.  read and COMPREHEND what you are reading, and go from there.

best of luck

[ricciardelli]

I posted a reply allready to your question on the 6 gunner board but just in case you didnt read it dont try 37 grains of 296 in your ruger youll need a hammer and a punch to get the brass out.

I didn't have any extraction problems until I got to 37.3 grains...that's why I list 37.0 as max.

[NYbowhunter43]

Thanks everyone for the replies. After checking everything and trying different primers I think the whole problem was not enough powder. I raised the charge up to 31.0 grains and they all went off.  I will work from there to find an accurate load. I did learn a great deal from all of you. Thanks again.

[TCBrian]

I definitely think that too light a charge was your problem. I have used 296 for years and it likes to be loaded close to maximum. I use 300 gr hard casts in a 44 mag with 296 and it is very accurate and has never failed me.

One thing Graybeard mentioned is possible lube or grease contamination. In straight walled pistol cases, I always used carbide dies and no lube to eliminate any chance of this problem.

Good shooting,
Brian

[Sgtshultzy1]

I still think it was the ashes!! :-D