New to the site - .375 H&H

[kgillard]

Hello everyone,
Just stopped by the site to see what I could learn about the .375 H&H for my Thompson/Center Encore; including some good whitetail loads if anyone has suggestions.  Had a Ruger #1 once, so I would guess they shoot about the same.  Any information concerning this round is greatly appreciated.  Thanks,

Karl Gillard
Lake Charles, LA

[Redhawk1]

Hello everyone,
Just stopped by the site to see what I could learn about the .375 H&H for my Thompson/Center Encore; including some good whitetail loads if anyone has suggestions.  Had a Ruger #1 once, so I would guess they shoot about the same.  Any information concerning this round is greatly appreciated.  Thanks,

Karl Gillard
Lake Charles, LA

You can also do a search here to get some past posts. The 375 H&H in the Encore is fairly new and a few guys have them and I am sure they will do there best to help you. I have the 416 Rigby barrel on my Encore and love it.  

[kgillard]

Hi Redhawk1,
Went out today and shot about 30-rounds in the .375 H&H.  I loaded them with 77.2 grains of IMR4350, Remington #9 1/2 Primer, and a Hornady 270 gr SP bullet.  The first 4-5 shots weren't bad, but it started biting after that.  Finally got it hitting the center, but it appears that the load were irratic.  I don't know if its the bullets or loads.  Thought it may have been me for a minute, but each shot went just fine.

Anybody out there with load suggestions, please feel free to jump in.  Also, any ideas on taming the recoil a little would also be appreciated greatly.  

Karl

[New Hampshire]

First best investment you can make is a Sims Limbsaver recoil pad.  I just bought one myself, finaly.  You notice a big diffrence just comparing the factory pad to the limbsaver.  The factory par feels almost like hard rubber compared to the firm, jellylike feel of the Sims.

Also, think about mercury recoil rducers for your stock.  A bit more work involved, but you should notice a difference.

Brian

[springer222]

I shot my new 375 H&H heavy barrel yesterday. I loaded light, 200 gr Sierra FP with 71.5 grs of IMR4064 - Sierra's accuracy load. Recoil was very manageable out of my synthetic stock, but I have added a recoil reducer anchored in the stock w/resin and also added a Simms pad. Shot 15 rounds, getting the scope sighted in. The one problem is eye relief. With the scope as far forward, still getting full view, the eyepiece would just touch my glasses with each shot (not hard, but still touching). So now more money for a scope with better eye relief - probably a Leupold - before shooting heavier loads.

[kgillard]

Hey, thanks for the info.  Guess I'll be off to the store for a Sims pad and a recoil reducer.  I know what you mean Springer222.  I have a Leupold Vari-X11c, 3x-9x mounted on the barrel.  Today I'm sporting a really nice 3/4" cut above my left eye from the scope.  In my 52-years, I've owned and shot a lot of rifles, including a .458 Win Mag.  Never had a scope pop me, even though I've seen it happen to friends many times.  My last shot yesterday allowed me to join the club.  Heck, it happened so fast, I almost didn't feel it sink a 1/4" into the front of my forehead (HA!HA!HA!).

I have some Hornady 270 grn Interlock bullets loaded in front of 77.2 grains of Hogdon IMR4350.  I may cut the load a little.  I doubt there are any whitetails in my area deserving of such a canon load.  But, I'll save what I have for the elk.

Any loading info or suggestions ya'll have are greatly appreciated.  I write them down in my notebook everytime I see one, especially those being shot from the Encore.  

Thanks again, Karl

[Redhawk1]

I am using a Leipold 1X4X20mm on my Encore in 416 Rigby and have a lot of eye relief.  

[kgillard]

Well, here's another one for you.  What do ya'll think about mag-na-porting or some type of compensator on the end of the barrel.  I shot a Remington 700 in .375 H&H last year.  The only modification was a ....hmmmm...can't remember the name...but it was a compensator full of holes that screwed on the front of the barrel.  The kick was nominal to say the least (less than my .30-06), but the sound was unbearable.  It had to be the loudest, most shrill sounding weapon I have ever fired.

Well, hope everything is going well for all of you.  I look forward to more talk about this wonderful cartridge.  

Karl

[Redhawk1]

Well, here's another one for you.  What do ya'll think about mag-na-porting or some type of compensator on the end of the barrel.  I shot a Remington 700 in .375 H&H last year.  The only modification was a ....hmmmm...can't remember the name...but it was a compensator full of holes that screwed on the front of the barrel.  The kick was nominal to say the least (less than my .30-06), but the sound was unbearable.  It had to be the loudest, most shrill sounding weapon I have ever fired.

Well, hope everything is going well for all of you.  I look forward to more talk about this wonderful cartridge.  

Karl

My 416 Rigby came with a factory muzzle break. I wish it did not come with one. When shooting at the range from a bench it is helpful but when hunting, i find them to loud. You will not notice the recoil when shooting at game, at least I don't.

Try the Simms pad and mercury recoil suppressor before you decide on a muzzle break.  JMHO.  

[kgillard]

Well, I leave for Osage Beach, Missouri in the morning...taking a little Thanksgiving vacation to visit friends.  There's a really nice Bass Pro Shop up there.  Guess I'll stop in and see if they have what I need.

But while I have your attention, I removed the stock pad from my synthetic and there's nothing more than a wide open shell.  Does anyone have any suggestions on installation of the mercury recoil reducer?

I could probably fill the space with expanding foam sealant, drill it, and then insert the reducer, but after a few shots I would think it would crumble to pieces.  Or, maybe wrap it with something?

Again, your thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated.

Karl

[springer222]

I filled the void with fiberglass resin. My recoil reducer is not removable, but if you were so inclined, you could fill and drill, so to speak. To take up some of the space and keep weight manageable, I used some shipping / packaging foam to fill some of the void and then poured the resin over the foam. I also filled the stock with several small batches of the resin, letting the resin set overnight. Small batches keep the heat generated from the hardening resin from getting excessive. If one uses fiberglass resin, it is important to find a "filler material" that will not "melt" from the resin (like gas in a Styrofoam cup). I do not know the longevity of this set-up, but I will test with .375 H&H, .405 Win, and 50x209 barrels.

[Redhawk1]

You may also try a RTV (silicone). Put the stock where it is supported in an upward poisson. Take the mercury reducer and install a plate in the removal screw hole and place it into the stock. Then fill the stock with the rubber silicon and let dry for several days. Reinstall recoil pad. Or you can consider a wooden stock.  

[kgillard]

Morning Redhawk,

I'm in Osage Beach, Missouri at the moment waiting to enjoy a nice Thanksgiving dinner.  Went to Bass Pro Shop in Springfield, Missouri yesterday and purchased a Limbsaver and a Recoil Reducer.

Okay, here's another question for you.  I don't have my gun with me to examine it, but I have a thought on the recoil reducer installation.  From what I remember when looking inside the synthetic stock, the end that connects to the gun is solid.  Could a 1/4" hole be drilled from the side that connects to the gun frame, place a 1/4-28 screw going to the inside of the stock, and then screw the recoil reducer in place?  What do you think about that...or can it even be done?  I'll know more when I get home and get to look at the stock more carefully.  My only real concern is...will it weaken the stock or maybe cause it to crack?  Well, I can always buy another one I guess....

Anyway, I hope everyone has an enjoyable and relaxing Thanksgiving!

Karl

[Redhawk1]

kgillard, i don't think it would be wise to drill the stock. I think it my weaken it.  But let me know what you do and how it turns out.  

[kgillard]

Evening Redhawk,

Just got home from Missouri and took a few moments to examine the synthetic stock.  The only way I could see that a screw could be installed would be to drill it from the front of the grip handle, thru mounting screw hole, and countersink it ever so slightly.  Wouldn't do anything for the looks and unless I filled in the hole...well, you know what it would look like.  Also, the drilled hole would be right in the seam where the two stock halves are joined.  Okay...not a good idea!

So, back to the drawing board.  Or, forget the board and just use what others have already figured out.  The recoil reducer fits perfectly side to side, so all I have to do is stop the up/down motion and front/back motion.  Probably have to go with the epoxy resin.

Well, if I figure anything else out, I'll be sure to pass it along.  Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving!

Karl

[Redhawk1]

Evening Redhawk,

Just got home from Missouri and took a few moments to examine the synthetic stock.  The only way I could see that a screw could be installed would be to drill it from the front of the grip handle, thru mounting screw hole, and countersink it ever so slightly.  Wouldn't do anything for the looks and unless I filled in the hole...well, you know what it would look like.  Also, the drilled hole would be right in the seam where the two stock halves are joined.  Okay...not a good idea!

So, back to the drawing board.  Or, forget the board and just use what others have already figured out.  The recoil reducer fits perfectly side to side, so all I have to do is stop the up/down motion and front/back motion.  Probably have to go with the epoxy resin.

Well, if I figure anything else out, I'll be sure to pass it along.  Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving!

Karl

Sounds to me like a Walnut stock would be a lot easier. In my opinion the wooden stock absorbs the recoil a lot better than the synthetic stocks.