Question on Brass

[koli]

Provided I start 10% below max., it is not defective, and it is properly sized, does it matter what brass I use for reloading?  I notice that much data says what brass was used, and some does not.  Being new to this I would like to follow the recipies as exactly as written to start with.

[Gregory]

Yes it can matter.  Some brass is much thicker and you can develop unsafe pressures with loads that are well under book max.  
For example, I have some PMC 7mm-08 brass that is very thick walled compared to my Winchester cases.  I found I must back off the loads using PMC brass well under the recommended loads for WW brass.
10% below max loads may not be enough of a reduction in starting loads if you're using different brass than what the recipe calls for.  The starting loads in the reloading manuals are good places to start, especially when using different brass.
 
What cartridge are you reloading?

[koli]

I have not started yet.  Still in my studying phase.  Will start with .243 as that is what I shoot the most.  The reason that I asked was that my rifle likes the Federal 70 grain ballistic tips so I already have some brass but have not seen any loading data using the federal brass.  Most seem to use the winchester brass.  I will most likely buy some of that too start just to be on the safe side.

[PA-Joe]

So long as it is not military brass like Lake City and you are using a starting load 10% reduced you can use a different brass but I try not to mix brass. Use same brand and test each. Don't substitute powder primer or bullets.

[longwinters]

I would also look in more than one reloading book.  Different ones will show different namebrand componants but with the same powder, powder weights etc...  Sure componant changes can make a difference in pressures, but often they do not.  You will see that if you check out several reloading books on the same caliber.  I typically check 3 books for any new loads.

Long

[koli]

I picked up one of the compilation booklets that lists the data from many bullet and powder manufacturers in one book for the .243 win.  I figured that would give me the most information on the single cartridge that I wanted to start with.
I also did get a manual from a loading equipment supplier and one from a bullet manufacturer and various powder manufacturer booklets.

[Siskiyou]

PA-Joe:

Can you speak to the problem you have indicated with Lake City brass.  Is it from a certain time period, caliber, or primer?

[Lawdog]

Yes it can matter.  Some brass is much thicker and you can develop unsafe pressures with loads that are well under book max.  
For example, I have some PMC 7mm-08 brass that is very thick walled compared to my Winchester cases.  I found I must back off the loads using PMC brass well under the recommended loads for WW brass.
10% below max loads may not be enough of a reduction in starting loads if you're using different brass than what the recipe calls for.  The starting loads in the reloading manuals are good places to start, especially when using different brass.
 
What cartridge are you reloading?

The only thing I can think of to add to what 'Gregory' has to say is that same brass is softer than others and they too can cause problems when approaching max levels.  Lawdog
 

[cwlongshot]

Gregory is spot on!!
 Its because of the inturnal volume of the case. Its a pretty small amount but can mean alot if you have the wrong combonation of components!!

 I once had a Rem 788 in 22-250 rem. It was completely factory stock and factory Rem ammo was too hot for the gun!! It severly flattened the primer,  "smearing" them across the base of the case and VERY hard bolt lift. I had to load it so the starting loads listed was closer to my maximums. I got great velocities and excellent accuracy, and I got both with less powder!!

If you are just loading lite plinking loads, you can most likely get away with mixed brass. Anything loaded by the book, needs to be just that...by the book!!

 good luck,
 CW

[cporter]

Koli,

   I've been using Fed, Rem, Win, Frontier & PMC brass for reloading the .243  since 1980. Frontier brass is really thin, PMC is really thick and the rest are in between. Up until I bought new brass recently I had been using my Fed brass for competition and I bought it as loaded ammo with the 70 gr Speer TNT. So, Yes you can use it and it seems to be close enough to win brass that the velocities match what is is the Nosler load book.

  Do you now about the ladder test or Audette method for testing loads?


.243 load index

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/9062/shooting/index.html

[koli]

  Do you now about the ladder test or Audette method for testing loads?

Thanks for the info.

No, I have not heard of these yet.  I have not started reloading yet.  Am still gathering information and setting up an area to do it.

thanks again
koli

[Steve P]

If you have a chronograph, you may notice a slight difference in velocity when using Winchester vs Federal brass in .243.  If you are 10% below max when working up loads with same (Federal or Winchester - not mixed) you will not have any problems at all.  Don't need to go buy one if you already have the other.

If you work up a good load in one brass, and it is near max, don't just switch to the other brass and assume it will be ok.  Lower the load a few grains and work up to confirm different brass will like the same load.

Factory brass is a little different by each manufacturer, but in the .243, you will not notice it.  If you try using brass that someone has made ie. 7-08 to .243 or 308 to .243, you need to start about 20% lower as they can be a little thicker, therefore less case capacity, and pressure will build quicker.

You might try some H4831 in that .243.  My Ruger loves it.  My Remington .243 WSSM is still in the works, but all loads have shot moa or less so far, but still working up as no load data.

Good Luck, be safe, follow the rules, and you will be fine.

Steve  

P.S.  Military Brass and Commercial brass are a LOT different.  DO NOT substitute military brass using commercial load data without starting out 15-20% below max loads.  You also have to deal with primer pockets, neck thickness, etc.