Rust Removal

[Mainer]

There's some surface rust on the .308 barrel I purchased.  It's one the underside of the barrel, where the barrel rides in the forend.  Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove it?  I plan on refinishing the entire barrel.



Also, there are a handful of nicks on the side of the barrel.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fill them before refinishing?  If I reblue, that might limit my options as far as filling them in.

[quickdtoo]

If it's as bad as it looks in the pic, the only choice is to refinish the metal, I use automotive crochus cloth that comes in rolls to do the back and forthsies on the barrel with the strips wrapped half around it, makes the work go fast and once it's blued, you can't tell the difference. I completely stripped my .30-30 barrel, then used BC Perma Blue. Of course it's not as nice as a professional hot blue, but didn't cost near as much either, but it still looks great. I've tried doing several barrels just by repairing the bad areas and touch up with cold blue, never was really satisfied with the mismatched blueing.

I trick I learned when browning barrels is to heat the barrel with hot water after you've degreased it, then blue the hot metal with Perma Blue, rinse with water, then card it with #0000 steelwool, then repeat. It usually takes about 4-6 times to get the deepest blue possible with a cold blue.

[trotterlg]

Use emery cloth to polish out all the dings and rust pitts, NEF will re-blue the barrel for $20.00, not a bad deal.  If you polish it like a mirror it will look great then it is done.  Larry

[safetysheriff]

i'd actually try shooting the rifle before repairing it right now.   if it shoots well, like a .308 usually does, like a handi' usually does, you may consider just having the barrel turned down enough to get rid of the scratches/gouges.  if you fill it with any kind of metal i'm thinking it might show up as somewhat different because of the way it takes the bluing.   it'll cost you a little to have the ejector housing removed, the barrel turned, and the housing put back on, but it'll be the real deal when it comes to levelling out the metalwork.

i don't really know of any easier way to make the outside of that barrel homogenous and ready to take the bluing with one, consistent result.

take care,

ss'

[Mainer]

Yeah, it's probably a good idea to shoot the rifle before investing any money in refinishing.  $20.00 rebluing by H&R is a deal.  I'll have to see if I can find crochus cloth locally.

[trotterlg]

The smith that did the 17 rem conversion of my 17 mach2 barrel turned the last foot down and ground off all the sportster mach2 NEF markings and stamped it 17 rem, and you honestly can't tell where the old and new finish is or where the stampings were, so with a little skill the barrel lug and forarm mount can stay in place.  Larry

[safetysheriff]

mainer'

the reason i suggested shooting it first is this: when i see a rifle with gouges in the metal, i figure that it possibly has been abused.   i wonder what else is wrong with it.   sure, some people put gouges in the metal just taking things/firearms apart.   that just makes them somewhat slipshod, in my opinion.  that doesn't make them abusive, however.   but your barrel looks to be rather roughed-up.

one more thing, if i may.   if it doesn't shoot well, a smith can check the barrel for bore/chamber concentricity, etc.....and then determine what else is needed.   he/she might remove the ejector housing, shorten up the chamber and re-cut a new one that is concentric with the bore.   they can also check the crown and then put the ejector housing back on.   why start a bluing project if other work is needed first?

i hope it goes well for you.

take care and let us know,

ss'