Author Topic: more ruger #1 modification questions  (Read 891 times)

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Offline horseman308

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more ruger #1 modification questions
« on: November 30, 2005, 03:15:04 PM »
Okay, I have a more questions. I'm working on a mental picture of the customized things I'd like to due to my #1.  In addition to other questions about sights and reshaping the forearm that I've asked about recently, I'm wondering about color case hardening and engraving.  Specifically, I know that there is normally a lot of expensive equipment involved in color case hardening. I've got Doug Turnbull restorations to quote a price on doing my rifle.  I was wondering if anybody can tell me what the actual process entails. Can any of it (like a steel butt-plate for example) be done at home with normal workshop items, or does it all need a special set-up.  Also, if I were going to have some engraving done on the receiver, would it be best to get that done before the hardening so that it all has a uniform coating, or could I get it done later, so that the bare metal under the hardening stands out better?  This project is going to be done in stages, over several years most likely, since being in graduate school doesn't give me a lot of free time or money.  At least thinking about this gives me a little mental vacation  :grin:
Any thoughts or advice anyone could offer would be great.  thanks
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Offline marlinman93

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more ruger #1 modification questions
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2005, 01:35:34 PM »
Most engravers will not touch a casehardened frame once it's done. You'll need to have the engraving done before any casehardening is applied.
 Casehardening is applied by packing the metal part in a canister of bone meal, charcoal, or whatever the smith uses. The whole thing is packed into a oven, and brought to a pretty high temperature. A high temp oven is required, and some folks have found that old potter's ovens work well.
 When the part reaches temperature, it is removed, and submersed in liquid, often with oil on top. The swirling patterns you see are created based on how each smith does his quenching, and what pack material he uses.
 This isn't a job an amateur could or should do. Many good gunsmiths wont even try it. Turnbulls is about the best, but there are others who do excellent work, and charge much less. Classic Arms and Gun Fancy both do great work.
 Dale Woody, at Gun Fancy did the engraving and casehardening on my Hepburn, and IMO the workmanship is excellent. His prices are most reasonable.

 


http://www.gunfancy.com/
Ballard, the great American Rifles!