Building up Mauser boltface?

[Red Elk]

I need to change a mauser boltface back from a magnum configuration to a standard (.30-06) boltface.
If I remember right this entails using an oxy acetylene outfit and nickle rod and building up the rim of the face and then cutting a new contour in with the lathe.

Is this correct? Does the bolt face need to be re-tempered after this?
If so, is there a standard process or must I send it off to a tempering outfit?

I seem to remember that this is how it is fixed, but my memory on this is not strong. Any info would really help.

Thanks.

RE :roll:

[cntryboy1289]

You could just simply buy a used bolt, cut off the handle and weld on a new one using a heat sink and heat paste and not have to do the machining.

If you do  it the way you asked about, I would send it out to be recase-hardened.  There are several different places, but here's one I use:

http://www.mayfoundry.com/

If you are changing the volt out it would make sense to me that you are rebarreling as well.  You might find a good VZ24 and just have two rifles instead of the one.

[Red Elk]

Thanks for the ideas.

It's kinda a long story, but I wound up with a new barrel, on a reciever which I have a bit of time into, with the bolt handle all done, with a new three position safety on, headspaced up nice, and test fired well, now I find out it won't extract because someone in past opened up the boltface and modified the extractor.
I can replace the extractor easy enough, and the welding and lathe work on the bolt is not that big a deal, I can do them in a couple of hours. I need to know about the case hardening of the bolt face though.
Assuming I can get the bolt face welded up without annealing the lugs, which I think I can probably do, using tig or maybe even wrapping them, using heat paste, and using oxy acetylene, I still need to case harden the face.
I suppose I could do that with case hardening powder, but I am just trying to find out some more options, or maybe more info from someone who has done it.

Thanks.

RE

[lefty o]

those 2 lugs are the most important part of the action, i wouldnt mess with that bolt face. yuou could just try a new extractor and see how that works or do a new bolt.

[cntryboy1289]

You can find a used bolt for less than $25 most anywhere.  Unless it puts you out of spec on the headspace, it would be a lot easier.  

Yes, you could with TIG build up the bolt face, but it sure comes off easier with a lathe than it is welding it back on.

I would even consider removing the barrel and moving the shoulder back
and rechambering to the new bolt a lot easier and quicker than rewelding and hardening the bolt afterwards.  Just my 2 cents on it.

[gunnut69]

Welding a bolt face can be done as you've said but a new bolt is mych simpler. Tranfer the handle and striker mechanism and adjust the headspace. If you have the reamer, an afterboon... Otherwise you have to send it away for heat treating and some of those stress fracture from the re-heat treating process and then you'd still have to get a new bolt. Bolts are simply too cheap to do otherwise. I don't believe you can build up the extraction fence on the bolt face without damaging the bolts heat treatment..

[ringo]

I think bolt lugs are pretty significant, when bending a bolt you are cautioned to wrap the bolt lugs with a wet rag, and use a heat sink with heat paste on the other end.  This is done so as not to change the case hardening and temper.  As suggested, get a new bolt body and swap over all the stuff you want to keep.

[Longrider]

Try a new standard extractor before getting excited about anything else. The bolt will probably work just fine as-is.

[Kiwi Rob]

Hi ,welding on the face of any centerfire bolt is a big no no unless you can be sure that the metal  of the lugs and the bolt face can be retained in its original form or rerturned to it's original specification after you have finished  welding and machining ..  If you must retain the original bolt then you can machine a ring to replace the metal previously removed and solder it in place as this is not a structural part and does not need to be hardened or heat reated ,you then cut out the bits that obstruct the extractor slot and the bottom of the bolt face where the cartridge slides up out of the mag  , you may even experiment with leaving that piece in place   , as in recessed bolt face  ..I strongly reccomend that you do not go down the welding route ..kiwi rob

[Red Elk]

I would like to thank you all, for such wonderful information.
The depth and breadth of this forum is evident.
A wonderful bunch of helpful individuals, with a wide range of options.

Thanks Again. I will stick around and see what develops.

RE