Author Topic: Recoil Reducer installation plans for Composite Stock (Read 711 times)

kgillard · « **on:** December 08, 2005, 11:21:18 AM »

Anyone needing an idea for placing a recoil reducer in your synthetic Encore stock, check out the reply below.

This reducer is basically a small piece of flat steel about 1-1/2" wide and 1/8" thick, a 1/4"x20x6" stove bolt (depending on your reducer), a 1/4x20 nut, recoil reducer and buttpad (I used a limbsaver). It took me about 20 minutes from start to finish and works great.

Basically, weld the stove bolt at a 90 degree angle to the flat steel. Cut and shape the flat steel to match the inside of the butt pad. Put the nut on the bolt and screw on the recoil reducer to where it just snugs against the front inside of the stock. Then use the nut to lock the recoil reducer into place.

This way, you can remove the recoil reducer easily and it doesn't move around the inside of the stock...stays firmly in place (at least it does with my .375H&H). The bolt length may have to be cut slightly (about 1/16th to 1/8"). However, with this method the recoil reducer is able to be adjusted for proper fit.

Karl

kgillard · « **Reply #1 on:** December 08, 2005, 02:25:22 PM »

Okay, thanks to Jack I believe I can post the photos. Here goes:
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Well, so they are in backwards order...at least I got them on. Thanks abunch Jack!!

Flyrod444 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 09, 2005, 01:39:04 AM »

Glad I was able to help. If I ever get a hard recoiling caliber I may just have to try that reducer.
Jack

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 09, 2005, 01:44:57 AM »

Now all you need to do is get a patten and mass produce them and sell them.

New Hampshire · « **Reply #4 on:** December 09, 2005, 03:57:31 AM »

Ha, Redhawk is right. I dont have a welder, nor the skills to weld, so I guess this ones above my skill level

.
Brian

kgillard · « **Reply #5 on:** December 09, 2005, 01:46:49 PM »

Well New Hampshire, I guess there could be another way. Follow the same principle, but instead of welding the bolt to the flat steel, simply drill a hole in the flat steel (about 1/4 or 5/16), use a bolt that has a very thin head, put it thru the steel and place a nut all the way up to connect it to the flat steel. Then do everything as the original plans state. Hmmmmm....might work!
Karl

New Hampshire · « **Reply #6 on:** December 10, 2005, 02:14:05 AM »

You know, depending on how thick the steel I use is I might be able to drill and tap, and instead of a bolt use threaded rod. Ive got access to all that. Hmmmm ideas abound :wink:

.
Brian

kgillard · « **Reply #7 on:** December 10, 2005, 09:28:15 AM »

Afternoon Brian,
I thought of the drill and tap method also. The flat steel I used was 1/8" (easy to cut, grind, etc.). Just to be on the safe side, I would also place a nut to lock the threaded bolt after I screwed it in where I wanted it. So, I would have a lock nut on each side of the threaded rod.

Guess I'm just a little overboard, but shooting the .375H&H, I was just wanting everything to stay secure with all the recoil. This way, nothing moves. Let me know how it turns out.

Karl