Can the .22 Magnum Sporster be modified to shoot small CF's?

[Couger]

Can the Sportster .22 Winchester magnum in a heavy barrel be modified to shoot (and handle the pressure) from the .221 Fireball?

And .22 K-Hornet?

Thanks!

[.308]

Good question, trotter has a .17 HRM that's rechambered to .17 Rem. http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=78810 There's another thread in here somehwhere too, but this it the most recent.

Regarding the .22 K-Hornet, why not have one of the .22 Hornet barrels rechambered? I'd say that would be less expensive. Take care.

[Leftoverdj]

Can be done. I would not do it without extensive testing.First thing would be to check groove diameter. .22 rimfire barrels commonly run tighter than the .224 of modern centerfire bullets. Rimfire barrels are also commonly made of less durable steel than that used for centerfire so that needs checking too. Then action strength comes into question. If the Sportster action is as strong as the old H&R actions, it'll do, but you need to know for sure.

I'd forget the whole thing and just buy a Hornet.

[Couger]

Thanks for answering.

Sounds like a good idea to check on barrel steels.  Wasn't aware there was that much difference in barrel steel with the Sportster barrels and regular rifle barrels.!

Also, the .22LR is .222 caliber and the .22 Mag is .224 - same as the Hornet, K-Hornet and Fireball.  I would never attempt the project I'm comtemplating by modifying a .22LR barrel.

My desire to use a Sportster could possibly happen as a result if a bull barrels is offered for that model, but not (a heavy barrel) for the .22 Hornet in a HandiR.  In both the .22 K-Hornet (Kilbourne Hornet) and the Fireball, I want the barrels to have a lot of steel in them!  Not the thin light-weight tapers.

Apparently I need to place another phone call to Gardner, MA and talk to a tech.

[quickdtoo]

If you search for trotterlg's posts, you'll see that he called Green Mountain and found out the centerfire and rimfire barrels are the same metal, that's why he did a 17 rem from a 17hmr or 17M2, don't remember which. Best 22mag barrel you could get would be the 22MB, 22" bull, same as comes on the .22mag Ultra.

http://hr1871.com/barrelAcc/index.htm

[ironglow]

Wow !;
    You are surely correct there Quick..I got my sportster with the three popular barrels...only the .17 HRM is a bull barrel...from the way it "hangs" and shoots, I would wish I had gotten all bull barrels...

   I know the .17 are naturally more accurate...but there is more differential than that...
   
   That is why my plans on a .204 & .243 setup is aimed at both being bull barrels...

[Esteves]

I've been thinking along similar lines in order to get a Handi chambered in 5.7x28mm without stubbing a barrel.

It'd sure be nice if H&R would offer unchambered "wildcatter" barrels...

[ironglow]

  ...Don't know if we will see more..or less options with Remington.

[Esteves]

Topic resurrection...

I've been thinking along similar lines in order to get a Handi chambered in 5.7x28mm without stubbing a barrel.

So I finally decided to try it. 
I picked up a sportster in .22WMR  The barrel locked up nicely on my SB2 frame, so..
I reamed the chamber to 5.7x28mm.

I reduced the lip of the ejector by careful hand-filing, but I'm now stuck trying to get the ejector to function properly. 
The lifter button mod illustrated here http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,111783.msg1098343569.html#msg1098343569 doesn't seem to be all that's required because when the action is broken and the ejector is out, it doesn't drop down at all and chambering a round is prevented.

Any ideas/tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.

[mcwoodduck]

I just want to chime in with a silly answer.
The barrel can be made to shoot center fire by just rechambering it.
The frame can not.  It is a rimefire.
I have a 22 Mag rifle that I figured all the frames were the same when I ordered it and they of set the rimfire chambers to use the center fire firing pin.  NOT so.  Rimfire frames are rimfire and are nto set up to shoot center fire CTGS.

[Esteves]

Sorry if I wasn't clear above.  The rechambered sportster (SS1) barrel will be used on a centerfire (SB2) frame.  The sportster frame will turn into spare parts.

[mcwoodduck]

Keep the frame in case you come across a 22LR, 17 M2, 17 HMR barrel cheap and turn it into a little plinker, squirrel getter or garden gun to get rid of crows, rabbits, and non benificial snakes.
I have used a 22LR with either Super Colibri or CB longs for a few years for this.

[ironglow]

I have a .22 Hornet barrel which I picked up here in trade. It was bored from a .22 mag.....works good..

[Esteves]

I think the 22 hornet is probably easier to rechamber/convert to than the 5.7x28 is.

The 5.7 is rimless and has very little taper, and I'm having trouble getting the 22 magnum ejector to work with it.

[quickdtoo]

Just convert it to a factory style extractor, see the FAQs. 

Tim

[Esteves]

Just convert it to a factory style extractor, see the FAQs. 

Thanks, Tim,

I've re-read all of the ejector/extrctor FAQs, and I think I get it now.

This thread from the FAQs is the most relevant, specifically this bit:

UPDATE EJECTOR TO EXTRACTOR CONVERSION

Ok, the ejector to extractor conversion is done, I was able to make a standard factory style extractor out of my 35 Remington barrel, but in addition, I was able to add a spring to the ejector claw that makes it a positive extractor that also has a spring in it to push the empty out as far as possible until the ejector claw hits the frame, so no more sticking brass, and the case comes out ~.265" which is over .100" farther than a factory extractor making it easier to grab with gloves and if the case sticks, the spring will launch the case out of the chamber at the end of the barrel opening travel when the extractor takes over. I did used the same tool to cut the underlug slot, only the extractor slot is longer toward the pivot, I used a different edge of the template to duplicate the hole positions of a factory extractor underlug, only this time I had a transfer punch that I got from The Little Machine Shop. The spring is .550" long, .216" in diameter, of .022" wire.

If I digested that article correctly, then my little project will go something like this:

New Parts

• Coil spring: .550" long, .216" in diameter, of .022" wire.
• Cam extractor
• Extractor spring

Other items needed:

• Drill press.
• Template material (e.g. plexiglass) for accurate roll pin hole placement.
• Extractor barrel to use as a master for the template and to guage slot placement
• Three 2" x .035" ¼" drive cutoff wheels
• ¼" drive mandrel that accepts 1/4" or 3/8" cutoff wheels
• duct tape to shim the cutoff wheels
• a piece of ¼" board
• a C clamp

Procedure:

• Make template from extractor barrel
• Set up drill press as outlined in linked article
• Cut underlug slot in ejector barrel
• Polish ejector (now extractor) and housing
• Assemble with new parts

Theory Section:
I'm still weak in this area.

What did I miss?

[quickdtoo]

Works for me!  I use a $450 Harbor Freight mini-mill to do them now, much easier and nicer looking, the mill has lots of other "Handi" uses too, like making octagon barrels, but the drill press works fine, I made several conversions both ways with it. 
 
Tim