A Question On The Duke Stop-loss?

[Bobber]

I got those traps from you Tom and really like them  very much :grin:  . They are a very worthy successor to the old B&L shur-hold's, but I have one question. I have always liked the idea of the chain being attached to the end of the trap frame on the single spring traps. I like the animal pulling towards the spring side of the trap, and I like pushing the spring into a pocket set with the chain all outside. I did this change to two of the traps you sent me and wonder why Duke went to the clevis on the spring? They have a hole for a swivel on the frame but it's at the wrong end of the frame. This is just my preference and maybe it doesn't really matter especially for muskrats. I don't really mind drilling the hole as I put a little longer and heavier chain on the trap anyway. I add a universal swivel two links of chain from the end of the trap frame, then the extra chain with the factory swivel provided on the end of the chain.  I have had good luck using the old B&L #1 stop-loss traps at  coon sets modified this way. I either stake them solid one or two links past the universal swivel with cable stakes, or attach a drag with extension cable or chain to the end of the chain. Never had one with self-inflicted damage from chewing as the guard  to gets in their way.

[Bogmaster]

Bob,the chain and clevis were put on the longspring end of the trap,because that is how I wanted them made.
 I never liked the chain on the trap frame end,when trapping rats,the excess chain,allowed rats or mink several inches of movement.Most of the time they used this to move a bit up onto the rat houses,instead of being kept in the water and deep sixing.I also had the delay pin removed.
 I have never been a believer in the need to move the chain to the trap frame end to hold coon.But,the trap used must be strong springed.The Dukes have a very strong spring--both the longspring and stoploss spring,are very strong.You will find that the stoploss spring puts pressure on a coons foot---this pressure,is directed back at the longspring.
 We have a very ,very large coon in Minnesota the Duke stoploss have done a good job in holding them.
 We as trappers,will never agree on how we like our traps set up.But I love the Duke Stoploss,because it was built the way I wanted it built.LOL--if there is anything you dont like about the design---you can blame me.
 Tom

[Bogmaster]

Bob,the chain and clevis were put on the longspring end of the trap,because that is how I wanted them made.
 I never liked the chain on the trap frame end,when trapping rats,the excess chain,allowed rats or mink several inches of movement.Most of the time they used this to move a bit up onto the rat houses,instead of being kept in the water and deep sixing.I also had the delay pin removed.
 I have never been a believer in the need to move the chain to the trap frame end to hold coon.But,the trap used must be strong springed.The Dukes have a very strong spring--both the longspring and stoploss spring,are very strong.You will find that the stoploss spring puts pressure on a coons foot---this pressure,is directed back at the longspring.
 We have a very ,very large coon in Minnesota the Duke stoploss have done a good job in holding them.
 We as trappers,will never agree on how we like our traps set up.But I love the Duke Stoploss,because it was built the way I wanted it built.LOL--if there is anything you dont like about the design---you can blame me.
 Tom