« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Drag Marks  (Read 855 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Tn Jim

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 714
  • Gender: Male
Drag Marks
« on: January 03, 2006, 05:14:00 AM »
Can anyone tell me what causes the drag marks coming off the cylinder lock recesses on a Ruger SBH? My local smith told me he has never seen a Ruger single action that didn't do it. Does it hurt anything? Or is it detremental to accuracy? The gun locks up well and I've never had a problem with it in nine years. Just curious about this. Thanks in advance for your help.
Logged
Not all Muslims are terrorist, but oddly enough, all terrorist are Muslims.

Offline knight0334

  • Trade Count: (3)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Gender: Male
    • Pennsylvania Firearm Owners
Drag Marks
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2006, 06:38:13 AM »
Just a guess on my part, but probably the steel of one componant being harder then the steel of the other..
Logged
RIP ~ Teeny: b.10/27/66 - d.07/03/07

Offline Ahab

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 398
  • Gender: Male
Drag Marks
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2006, 08:52:58 AM »
Yup, all my Rugers have the "drag". Does it effect accuracy? No. I believe the upward push of the cylinder latch actually improves accuracy by fitting more closely in the slot. :-)
Logged
NRA Endowment
Arizona Bighorn Sheep Society member
Arizona Antelope Foundation member

Offline 44 Man

  • Trade Count: (28)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2419
  • Gender: Male
Drag Marks
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2006, 10:49:54 AM »
If a gun, such as a Colt single action, is properly 'tuned' the cylinder locking bolt will not rise until it mates into the half moon cut leading into the cylinder notch.  If you have a gun timed like that it is beautiful, BUT if you cock it really fast, you might be able to occasionally spin the cylinder past the bolt before it locks into the notch.  For cowboy action, most 'smiths will tune the bolt to rise just a little sooner to avoid this.  Ruger has alway timed theirs so the bolt snaps back very early.  This avoids the problem but leaves the 'drag' marks on the cylinder.  The marks do no harm at all.  Enjoy that Ruger!  44 Man
Logged
You are never too old to have a happy childhood!

Offline John R.

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 845
Drag Marks
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2006, 03:16:11 AM »
I've talked to several gunsmiths about this problem. They all say that Rugers are timed early and all of them will have the drag marks but it doesn't hurt a thing. :-)
Logged

Offline jimster

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2237
  • Gender: Male
Drag Marks
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2006, 01:28:30 PM »
I'm with 44 Man and John R.....All my Rugers have drag lines, but never have I experienced over rotation of the cylinder. Also, I used them like no other revolvers and they can go a long long time without any work.
I have however experienced over rotation of cylinders on very well timed Uberti revolvers (just like 44 Man says) when cocking them fast and hard, in which case I was bummed out and had to have a smith work on them so I could cock them fast and hard.
Forget the drag lines on your Ruger, shoot it a lot and enjoy.

Jimster
Logged

Offline DWARREN123

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 157
Drag Marks
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2006, 01:46:35 PM »
All Rugers, DA/SA, have these marks, there is no problem. Even my S&W has them.
Logged

Offline Iowegan

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 646
Drag Marks
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2006, 05:29:23 PM »
The Old Models timed right and let the cylinder latch pop up just as it aligned with the leade. As stated before, the New Models time early and let the cylinder latch pop up soon after the cylinder begins to rotate. It won't hurt a thing but looks bad.

There's an easy fix to prevent "drag lines" in all New Model Ruger SAs. If you disassemble a NM, you will see a spring loaded plunger protrude from the hammer (hammer plunger). The hammer plunger is what pulls the cylinder latch down and holds it down as the cylinder rotates. The longer the plunger, the longer it will hold the latch down, thus no drag line. You can make a new hammer plunger using the shank of a 3/32" drill bit. Duplicate the top of the plunger and slot measurement. Extend the slot and bottom of plunger by .085". It works great!

See part # 30 in the schematic: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=723&m=13&mn=Ruger%c2%ae&model=Super+Blackhawk+
Logged
GLB
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »