Author Topic: Clean Shot Question (Read 1247 times)

MOGorilla · « **on:** March 12, 2003, 02:14:51 AM »

Hey,
Thinking of buying Cleanshot, read on their website not to use lubricant. Does this include wonderwads? I typically load 25 grains bp, followed by two wonderwads to bring the ball closer to the end of the cylinder, mainly because I am lazy and didn't want to keep measuring corn meal.(I have found this improves my grouping dramatically) Does anyone have any experience with wonderwads and Cleanshot?

Charlie Detroit · « **Reply #1 on:** March 12, 2003, 12:25:31 PM »

Cleanshot is no longer Cleanshot...they got sued by Hodgdon for patent infringement and had to quit. They reorganized under the name of American Pioneer Powder Co.
http://www.americanpioneerpowder.com
I think the old Cleanshot Technologies website is still running though, and a lot of testimonials are on it:
http://www.cleanshot.com.
If your looking for first-hand knowledge on this site, though, I believe the person to look for is Dub. I think he's used it a lot. He'll be happy to help you out, if he's not too busy trying to outrun a load of double-ought buck.

howdy doody · « **Reply #2 on:** April 19, 2003, 06:47:11 PM »

I have been using a lot of the new CleanShot/American Pioneer. It does make it's own lube as you can readily tell by the star that forms on the muzzle. I also shoot 30gr and use a .030 veg fiber wad over the powder. To ram just find something suitable and insert onto the ball and ram a second time. .38/357 bullets work well. You can even use bullets with smokeless lube on them also with that powder. I seem to like this powder a lot for CAS shooting.

Flint · « **Reply #3 on:** April 20, 2003, 05:09:30 PM »

I used cleanshot in 45Colt cartridges in a converted (R&D) Remington. It may make its own lube, but it's not enough to keep a Remington cylinder turning. I've been told it will turn Bore Butter into concrete.... I had to repeatedly Ballistol the cylinder pin and wipe off the fouling blown into the cylinder pin gap. However, a Remington is harder to keep turning than a Colt, and most certainly a Ruger (Old Army) which will shoot all day without fouling stoppages. I think it might be a good powder for 45-70. Hogdons 777 was very strong, also shoots dry in a Remington.

Charlie Detroit · « **Reply #4 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:03:49 AM »

I've had trouble keeping Remingtons turning, too, and I was using real BP. Actually, it was duPont FFFg...that puts it back a ways. I've been pondering this for some time...I think that if you got a thread-cutting die, preferably an adjustable one, that was oversize for the cylinder pin, and ran it down the pin where the cylinder bears on it, BEING CAREFUL TO CUT THE THREADS LIGHTLY ENOUGH TO SAVE THE DIAMETER, you might be able to produce something similar to the grease grooves on a Colt. Maybe. Anybody heard of this being tried?

Flint · « **Reply #5 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:44:26 PM »

There were other C&B pistols with spiral grooves besides Colt. The Colt cylinder pin is also a smaller diameter in the thread area, and has the bearing points at the front and rear. The forward wedge area and "threaded " area diameter is .412, and the two bearing points are .426 to .428 diameter. The Remington might benefit from a pin diameter reduction in the central area of the cylinder as well. The primary problem (both brands) is the lack of "gas ring" extension as found in more modern cartridge guns. The SAA and the S&W top breaks like the Russian and Schofield had extensions that protected the cylinder pin from the cylinder gap. Such a tubular device could be fitted to a percussion, as was on the 1872 Open Top Colt, and the 1875 Remington had a gas ring extension, but not enough. The SAA was in the form of the removable cylinder bushing which also and importantly sets the cylinder gap and headspace, the second function of the extension.

lawall · « **Reply #6 on:** April 22, 2003, 09:58:33 PM »

hello,
it was a couple of years ago but i talked to a fellow about using lube with clean shot. its okay to use the dry wads but don't use the "bore butter type lubes"

howdy doody · « **Reply #7 on:** April 23, 2003, 06:43:42 PM »

Pards, I have noticed quite a few 58 Remington shooters take a file and make a series of grooves in their pins for lube. I use T/C bore butter and have never had a problem with binding in mine. I did however clearance my cylinders when I got them. I shoot with 6 extra cylinders and that is probably one reason I never felt I needed to groove my pins. I also shoot ROAs and I get a little binding after the second stage and I simply squirt a few drops of ballistol on the front side of the pin and spin the cylinder until free every time I load and they work just fine too. About the only thing I don't like about the CleanShot/American is how fast they will corrode a fired case from my rifle. I have to get them into water right away. That has been my experience with the stuff so far and since I have near a case of it, I will be shooting it for a while. :-)

Charlie Detroit · « **Reply #8 on:** April 24, 2003, 03:08:15 AM »

Well, if that ain't somepin! Eats brass, does it? They sure don't mention that on the website!

howdy doody · « **Reply #9 on:** April 24, 2003, 11:17:48 AM »

Yup, it really corrodes brass and if I had a nice yellow boy, I would use something different for sure. I think the easiest on brass I have tried was Clear Shot, but I don't see that around any more. I'll bet Clean Shot don't have anything like that on their website alright. Another disturbing thing that is rumored is that they are looking for a way to have Clean Shot smoke less.
HUH?

What fer?

I like it because it smokes so bad my times run into the minutes not seconds and it gives my posse a chance to eat a sandwich while I try my best to see the targets and ring some steel.