Author Topic: Plain old wheelweights and the .44 (Read 1249 times)

Balto · « **on:** January 17, 2006, 12:06:28 PM »

My .44 blackhawk shoots the RCBS 300 grain SWC and plain old wheel weights really well. Some are heat treated and some are not --it never matters as far as accuracy is concerned. Haven't killed anything with it yet.

Judging from the shape of the design it looks like it should be a good penetrator even it not Heat Treaded. And maybe give a little expansion if not too hard --I don't know......

Here is my question: Has anybody shot any big game with the AIR COOLED wheel weights only? If so how did the bullet perform? Thinking about using this load for spring black bear hunt. This load using 20 gr.
H-110 is ~1150 fps on my Chrony.

I have placed a few finishing shots on moose and caribou with my .41 mag and it just made a caliber size hole with a head shot using the 210 grain heat treated RCBS SWC. These were heat treated in an oven for ~ one hour @ ~400 deg.

Any help insight to what this bullet (or similar caliber same design ) would do on live game would be appreciated. Thanks.

jhalcott · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2006, 04:26:27 PM »

You can make casting bullets as difficult as he@@ or you can just cast them and enjoy shooting them. I've had complete penetration on LARGE white tail with plain old wheel weight bullets from a 44 mag SBH. Unless the bears where you are hunting are REALLY big, I'd use the plain 300 grain W-W slugs.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #2 on:** January 20, 2006, 04:53:21 PM »

Traditionally hunting applications use SOFT lead bullets. 1:20 or less. In a lot of applications air-cooled WW are too hard.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #3 on:** January 20, 2006, 09:53:02 PM »

they will work fine on game up to about 600 lbs. Anything bigger then that and i want something a little harder.

Balto · « **Reply #4 on:** January 21, 2006, 01:05:58 PM »

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like they should give pretty good performance on most game.

Usually I carry my .44 loaded with the factory loaded Federal 300 grain cast core bullets when I am rifle hunting (for emergency situations. etc.)

I used to carry just the 300 grain bullets (heat treated) that I cast myself but found occasionally a bullet wouldn't fire ( around 2 out of 500 so far). I think my lube was contaminating my powder but am not sure.

The bullets I cast myself seem a little more accurate than the factory ammuntion. That is why I am thinking of using them for hunting. I can usually average around 4" groups out at 50 yards with my cast bullet load. This is out of 4 5/8" barrel with iron sights. I will just work harder at not letting any lube get under my bullet bases when lubing or just wipe the bases down prior to loading.

Again, thanks for the replies.

STL Cardinal Fan · « **Reply #5 on:** January 23, 2006, 08:11:25 AM »

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #6 on:** February 05, 2006, 03:44:10 PM »

Hey there Balto,

I personally quench my cast WW bullets right from the mold and do so with most all the bullets I cast.

Normally I will be running 3 - 5 molds at a time - allows for cooling time between pours - depending on the outside temp.

I pour from an open pot using a bottom pour ladel, which is a big improvement over the typical edge pour type.

Anyway, you need to address some of your questions to Veral Smith at the LBT site or get his book on the subject.

I think one of his molds or possibly any mold with a wide and flat meplat will give you the needed shock value with little expansion. After all, you are already at .429 dia.

I have one of his molds, bought back a number of years, and it is without doubt the best mold I have or have ever used.

Keep em coming! :wink:

Balto · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2006, 05:44:37 AM »

Darrell,

Thanks for the information. I do have one question though:

First, how do you size and lube your bullets? In the past I would ussually size them in a .430 sizer without lube, heat treat in oven and cold water, and resize/lube them in a .431 sizer die. All this is a little time consuming. I definately would be interested in an short cuts.

All of my sizing/lubing this was done on a Lyman 450 sizer. I have had difficulty in the past heat treating first and then sizing. It really stressed my sizer to the point of breaking.

I will look into buying Veral Smiths book. Again, thanks for the advice. ........Balto

myronman3 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 07, 2006, 12:51:17 AM »

i had problems with a new sizer and bullets....i then put a little case lube in the inside of the sizer die, they slide in and out so easy now....just a tip