Author Topic: Old bbl + new frame = STUCK (Read 574 times)

MoustacheMike · « **on:** March 14, 2003, 05:20:35 PM »

OK, I finally did it, too. Stuck pretty well, too: removing the hinge pin didn't help at all. Thanks to a quick search of this forum I was able to find the solution, but I did have a few anxious minutes last night before I found Myronman3's post from Jan 11. I was never able to find the post that he referred to on "page 6". Perhaps our Moderator could "stick" the remedy permanently at the top of the forum.... Certainly, everyone should be aware that this can, in fact, happen to you; perhaps even a warning in the owner's book to encourage the newbies to be especially careful.

This event brought a couple of questions to mind. First, although a 4 penny nail can be used to disassemble a frame, a set of real punches would certainly be prudent. What sizes should I aquire?

Second, what should I do with this barrel? I'm a shooter, not a collector, so I'm not "up" on the type codes. It is a 10" octogon, soldered foresight, flat lug, solid (one piece) bolt (not a two-pice or "split" bolt). The extractor is pinned in place but the bolt is secured by a set screw from the bottom. There is a letter and a Maltese cross stamped on the lug (proof marks?). Calibre 30M1 (30 Carbine). I haven't removed the rear sight to see how many screw holes there are (as I'm lacking a proper punch to do that...). It shows the kind of normal wear that I would expect on a piece its age that has actually seen service, and not lived in a cabinet all its life (minor fame marks, etc.).

I know that I can send this back to the works for modification. What I am wondering is if this is of a vintage that it may be worth more as a collectable piece than as a shooter. If so, should I sell it, or try to swap it "as-is" for a newer one that works on my frame? (My frame is serial number 452XXX.) If its not especially valuable in its current state I'll just get it fixed.

Thanks for your opinions,

Mike

RonF · « **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2003, 02:07:21 AM »

Sounds to me like you have a type 2 barrel. If the rear sight is short, then it should be the original one. These barrels are expensive if in excellent or better condition, or in certain calibers, or shorter than 10". Sounds to me like yours it about like mine - pretty ordinary. I'd change the bolt and shoot it. That's what I'm doing, except I have it on an old frame so the bolt change wasn't necessary. Enjoy it!

RonF

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 15, 2003, 04:46:33 AM »

Mike, Check the printing on the barrel. Only if it is all on one line is this a Type 1 barrel(which would be worth 400-600 plus or minus). I think Ron is right, yours sounds like a 2. Check to be sure then SHOOT IT. Some of these barrels will lock up w/ new frames like a champ. I have one like yours(type 2 .256Win) that locks up with all my frames as good as any barrel I've ever had. Unfortunately, I know of no way to tell except trial and error. Error meaning stuck barrel and frame.
GOOD SHOOTIN', Walt

myronman3 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 15, 2003, 04:01:09 PM »

i hope that my post helped you out. i am under the understanding that changing the locking bolt to the newer style should remedy the problem. i didnt do that, as i just used it on the frame i got with the barrel (works fine with that frame). :shock: bad feeling, aint it? :shock: breathe a whole lot easier when you solve the problem. the other night i was wrestling with my auto-5 buttstock. took me forever to figure that sucka out. but i did prevail...