Author Topic: 40 in a 10 (Read 752 times)

simplicity · « **on:** March 07, 2006, 08:44:27 AM »

I have a question, something was kinda brought to my attention course I've only heard this from one person and wanted to see what others opinions were on the matter. I have a witness in 10mm and well it's pretty exspensive to shoot and the gun shoots very well, but exspensive I know I should just get dies and reload for it. but what someoen at a local gun shop told me was that I could shoot 40 s/w in it I didn't really think it would be safe I know the 10 is just a longer 40 but wouldn't head spacing be a problem I know the extractor would hold it back. But it would be like 38's in a 357 but this is a auto. This is the first person who has ever said this to me and well if possible would really make owning a 10 worth wild. I know if it is possible I would definetly have to change the slide spring. Basically what I'm asking is has anyone done this before and is it safe?

rockbilly · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2006, 11:43:28 AM »

:roll: I am with you to a point, it SHOULD work with no problem, but this ole boy doesn't plan to try it until the experts have given their blessings. As you said, it is not expensive to reload for the 10, so that is what I would do..

It is always better to safe than sorry. Thank god you have two eyes, two hands, and do everything you can to keep em. JMHO :wink:

Savage · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2006, 11:45:12 AM »

Check out:
www.savvysurvivor.com.

Buy a .40 barrel plus a Wolff Springs calibration kit of different weight recoil springs. Change the barrel and experment with spring weights till you get it right. It's easy and inexpensive!
Savage

KN · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2006, 12:16:11 PM »

It's supposed to head space off the case mouth so its not a good idea. It would probably work but you will probably have feeding problems because of the recoil difference not wanting to work the action properly. KN

shermbob · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2006, 02:07:11 PM »

While the diamiters match the lenght is 1/8" to short if you lock the frist cartrage in the extracters you might get one shot after that it is not going to happen as the cartragewill shove to deep into the chamber for the fireing pin to strike BUY the RIGHT ammo and be safe
shermbob

R.W.Dale · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2006, 03:06:33 PM »

Dude something you should learn is to NEVER believe anything someone "at a gunshop" tells you.

Cartridge Head Space:. Critical dimension in the assembly of a firearm. It is basically the distance between the face of the bolt or breech block and in the base of the cartridge case and is measured in tens of thousands of an inch. If head space is excessive the cartridge case will be able to move out of the chamber when fired and may burst or expand the firearm. If the head space is insufficient the bolt or breech block may be prevented from locking.[/b]

simplicity · « **Reply #6 on:** March 08, 2006, 07:35:31 AM »

Krochus trust me I don't beleive what most peopel in a gun shop tells me but I was just wondering if anyone had tryed it that's all. I don't plan on doing it anyways, but I always give credit if credit is due. Thanks for the posts guys.

Savage · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2006, 09:46:55 AM »

Didn't really want to get off into the headspace thing in rimless pistol cartridges-------but:
A excessive headspace condition exists in every straight wall rimless pistol case autoloader. Take the .40 S&W for example:
Max case length .850"
Min case lenght .840"
There you have a built in potential for .010" excessive headspace. Now, comes the barrel, for functional reliability, the chamber must be deep enough to accomodate the longer cases with a little extra space. In a good barrel you're taking .003"-.005".
Now you're looking at possibly .015" excessive headspace. Normally that is not a problem in a properly functioning pistol, as the extractor holds the case head against the breech face preventing the round from seating too far into the chamber. Even if the firing pin blow was sufficent to detonate a primer with a short case bottomed out in the chamber, most likely the case would set back against the breech face with sufficent force to mark the case head with the irregularaties of the breech face. IMO it is unlikely a case head seperation would occur. While you could PROBABLY shoot .40 ammo in a 10mm chamber without event--------------------
I WOULD NOT ATTEMPT, NOR WOULD I SUGGEST THAT ANYONE FIRE .40 AMMO IN A 10MM BARREL!

Savage

Mikey · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2006, 03:08:09 PM »

Don't do it! Get a 40 S&W barrel and spring set to work that 10mm in 40 S&W caliber. What you are thinking is similar to using 9mm Luger (Parabellum/9x19mm) in 9mm Largo, 38 Super, 9mm Steyr etc chambers and the end result is a broken pistol. The only thing that would hold the 40 S&W case in a 10mm cylinder is the extractor, which often fails under that type of use. It is not the same a firing a 38 Special from a 357 Magnum chamber. Mikey.

Texas Fred · « **Reply #9 on:** April 03, 2006, 04:24:54 PM »

Can't recomend anyone shooting .40 in a 10, Having said that, I've shot quite a few of them in my Glock m20, with nary a malfunction. Other pistols may have different extractors or other chamber dimentions ? I still won't put them in there for a carry load, or hunting. Was nice to know that it would work in a pinch however. Were accurate and shot to same point of impact as my 180 grain 10mm reloads.

Mainer · « **Reply #10 on:** April 04, 2006, 04:06:09 PM »

When I was in grad school I had a roomate who was a 10mm fanatic. He told me that he had test fired .40S&W cartridges in a 10mm. I can't remember whether it was a Glock or a Colt Double Eagle. I think he did so only a very few times.

That said I would not try it. Compared with a blown up gun or a missing eye or finger the 10mm ammo would seem cheap. I like Savage's idea of buying a .40S&W barrel and an assortment of recoil springs.