bluing removers

[AkRvrrat]

Give me some clues as to what is available for removing bluing. I see you can use naval jelly and CLR(calcium lime remover) and what else? Metal preparation is something else I am gettin familiar with. Some makers of finishes sell a cleaner but what over the counter cleaner can I use before spraying my finish on?  Cannot be a petroleum based product as that leaves a film.
thanks.

[Racepres]

Blue wonder , gun cleaner.  Works fer me...  MV

[Flint]

Vinegar works very well.

[eye812]

I heard pickle juice works really well. Good Luck :eek:

[Plink]

I've been using Brownells Steel White for removing bluing and light rust. I mix it in hot water. It'll pull bluing in a matter of minutes.

[AkRvrrat]

Plink do you use plugs before you soak the metals? I heard of that stuff before from a different moderator but he never used it yet. Sounds ideal.

[Plink]

Rvr,
So far I haven't had to soak anything long enough to worry about it. For light rust and bluing, it comes off quick. Supposedly it wont hurt metal if used by their instructions, but I'd definately plug it if I had to leave something soaking to remove heavy rust. I have a black powder revolver coming in that's a rust ball, so I guess I get to put it seriously to the test soon.

[gunnut69]

For the rust bucket you might try electrolisis. I read but haven't tried it yet of a process that turns red rust(ferris oxide) to black rust (ferric oxide). Similar to electro plating the solution used can be as simple as baking soda(a tbls./gallon). The negative pole of a battery charger is attached to the part to be cleaned. The positive or red electrode is attached to a sacrificial anode(a piece of steel or stainless steel). Plate may be best for the positive anode as the plating tends to be line of sight and the plate can surround the part being cleaned. Put the solution and part and anode in a platic container. There will be a slight off gassing but should not be a problem with good venting.. I would do this outside.. Keep the charger clips out of the solution or they will be destroyed and when all is hooked up a small stream of bubbles should be seen from the part being cleaned. I've an old highwall that went thru a fire. It's tight! I'll give the technique a try on that. The process says rust will literally fall of or can be rinsed away after the process is complete. If the rust is not gone the part can be simply reintroduced to the solution and the process continued. The solution never wears out, although the verbage said it gets pretty dirty after some use. The nase metal is supposed to be totally safe.

[Plink]

Thanks. That's definately some good info to add to the files. I've had to deal with a couple rusted up black powder guns so far, and I haven't found a really easy way yet. I'll look into that.  :-)