« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: .50 TC Scout Rifle  (Read 1178 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline River runner

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 188
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« on: March 24, 2003, 01:00:44 PM »
:-D Well folks, I got that rifle this past Friday and mother nature finally stopped the wind, to some degree, and the rain, which is unusual, and let me get out and pop some caps.

First of all the rifle was as advertised, new in the box with all the papers, unfired-lots of degreasing.

Went to my range well armed with ball and patch, TC conicals (Maxiball, Maxi Hunter, Saboted) and Balletts.

I can honestly say that at 50 yards I could easily take a deer with any of the projectiles mentioned. I was able to keep all my shots in a 4" bull at that distance, using from 60-70 grains of 2F.

The TC conicals showed the most promise, and allthough I didn't have time to work up a load, I shot several cloverleafs at 50 yards with the Maxi-Hunter. The Maxiball did allmost as well.

Needless to say I'm very happy with my new smokepole, and didn't experience any problems at all. I fired over 40 rounds and it never skipped a beat. Sure can't understand why TC no longer produces this rifle, I understand the factory burned down, but there must be a market for something like this. Sure does shoot a variety of bullets. RR
Logged

Offline Chris

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 462
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2003, 05:53:51 PM »
RR:

 :wink:  Thought you'd like it.

If you keep the nipple clear between shots and always use  BP and a hot cap, I'm sure your Scout will serve you well.

A little jealous now...sure would be nice to have a .54 Scout rifle to go with my .54 Scout pistol.    :cry:    But, I just dropped a few buck$ on a new Contender...guess I've got to draw the line somewhere.  Come to think of it...maybe if I bought the little woman a new vacuum cleaner...hmmm?    :)

Congratulations again and Be Safe!   ...Chris    :D
Logged
"An intellectual is a man who doesn't know how to park a bike!" Spiro Agnew

Offline River runner

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 188
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2003, 05:29:56 AM »
Chris, I got by relatively cheap, I just took "the little woman" to dinner. Most of the time, I don't say anything, kind of sneaky like.

Anyway all I've used for caps is CCI #11 standard, and like I said nary a problem. Also not once did I pick the nipple during those 40+ rounds. Guess I got a good one.

When I got her home I did a pretty thorough cleaning and the flash hole was still pretty clean, at least it was open. What do you use as a nipple pick? The one I've got seems to be short, the way the nipple is. I see what folks mean about an unconventional nipple.

One dumb thing I did do (one of many) was just before I started firing I snapped a cap to dry out any possible lube in the nipple. In doing so I didn't bring it up to my shoulder, and had my left wrist too close to the gas vent, that smarted just a little bit. Wonder if those vents are even neccesary?

I was going to go out today and start on an accuracy load but the wind is blowing like crazy. That's the only really bad thing about living in the desert is that confounded wind. RR
Logged

Offline Chris

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 462
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2003, 02:51:54 PM »
:eek:   Whoops!  I didn't even think to give you a heads-up about those vents in the nipple and frame.  I'll bet that smarted huh?  I'm sure there is a good reason to vent the gases outboard...a P.E. could probably tell us why but it must have something to do with venting the excess pressure out of the nipple/plug.   Oh well, I guess you have been branded.   :-D

Anyway, I use a small piece of stainless wire to clear the nipple.  The "standard" picks you get with most nipple wrenches really aren't long enough are they?  Found that out myself just like you did...but it's just a minor inconvenience.  BTW, probably a good idea to make sure you coat the threads of the nipple-plug with Gorilla grease or a similar anti-sieze compound...it will make it easier to remove/maintenance the plug/barrel.  Don't want to be cranking on that small wrench you got with the gun and slip...ouch!     :shock:

Take care...and let me know how it shoots round balls if you are so inclined...that's all I have shot in my Scout.

Be Safe!   ...Chris   :D
Logged
"An intellectual is a man who doesn't know how to park a bike!" Spiro Agnew

Offline bubba

  • Trade Count: (62)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1898
  • Gender: Male
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2003, 03:14:09 PM »
The holes were to keep  the same pressure in the load with every shot. The access was vented away to keep the pressure the same every shot which increases accuracy.
Logged
”A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don’t have one, you’ll probably never need one again.”

Molon Labe

Remember... Four boxes keep us free: the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box.

Offline River runner

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 188
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2003, 06:25:42 PM »
Bubba, guess that makes sense, I have to admit it seemed pretty accurate with just ballpark loads. Those vents sure took me by surprise though. Like Chris said "i'm now a branded man.

I tried two different patch material with .490 balls. I used 70 grains of 2F KIK with Wal Mart pillow ticking with the Dutch Schultz dry lube method 5-1  and the denim with the same lube. The pillow ticking proved the most accurate using rb, producing a 3" group for 5 rounds at 50 yards with all staying in the 4" black I had two touching at 12 one dead center, and two at 3. The denim stayed in the black barely and looked like a shotgun pattern.

Next time I get out I'll do some serious accuracy testing. I was surprised that the rifle's sights were pretty well set at the factory and very little adxjusting was necessary.

Like I said before though I'd like to get a mold that will reproduce what those TC Hunters did 350 grain. However for hunting out here, I'd prefer a solid nose as the the larger mule deer have some pretty heavy bone to crash through. Any ideas on that? RR :grin:
Logged

Offline Chris

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 462
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2003, 06:19:59 PM »
RR:

Is this what you are looking for?  I've traded with these folks before...good people.

http://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?SubCat1ID=63&Cat1Name=Casting%20Equipment


...Chris   :D
Logged
"An intellectual is a man who doesn't know how to park a bike!" Spiro Agnew

Offline River runner

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 188
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2003, 03:37:11 PM »
Chris, I thank ya for that web site, the mold I'm looking for was made by TC Arms, but I didn't see it on that site when I checked the used molds. I think Lee comes about as close as I might get. I checked Buffalo Arms also and no luck either. Some of the best prices I've found so far are with MidSouth Shooting Supply out of Tennessee. Haven't had much luck with the auctions though. Anybody use Lee's "Real Bullet" in these Scouts? RR
Logged

Offline Chris

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 462
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2003, 04:00:24 PM »
I'll keep my eye-balls peeled for you.  I see them on the AuctionArms and Gunbrocker sites every now and then.

Hey...maybe you should post in the GB's Classified Section..."Want to by a TC MOLD".  I'll bet somebody might be able to help you out?

...Chris    :D
Logged
"An intellectual is a man who doesn't know how to park a bike!" Spiro Agnew

Offline bubba

  • Trade Count: (62)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1898
  • Gender: Male
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2003, 12:23:57 AM »
HEY RR just another hint with those vents. If you are out in damp weather al all, take a crayon and fill in the holes. If not moisture has a direct route to the powder through them. The holes line up with holes in the nipple and then to the powder. If not you might have a lot of hangfires in the damp weather. As soon as you shoot it the pressure will blow the wax out and not effect your pressures. This bit of advice is from experience I had with mine. Hope this helps.
Logged
”A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don’t have one, you’ll probably never need one again.”

Molon Labe

Remember... Four boxes keep us free: the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box.

Offline River runner

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 188
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2003, 04:47:54 PM »
Bubba, thanks for the info, I'll probably use candle wax on those vents, should do the same as a crayon, and I'll keep my granddaughters happy by not messing with their Crayola's,

Chris, put an add on our classifieds and took a look at what they have, Also didn't see what I was looking for on the auctions. RR :D
Logged

Offline bubba

  • Trade Count: (62)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1898
  • Gender: Male
.50 TC Scout Rifle
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2003, 12:47:40 AM »
either one works. My kids outgrew the crayons and no grand kids so I confiscated a crayon.
Logged
”A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don’t have one, you’ll probably never need one again.”

Molon Labe

Remember... Four boxes keep us free: the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box.

Offline Mike C

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 50
    • http://mattbeltonoutfitters.com
Scout vents
« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2003, 01:09:07 AM »
The reason for the vent system in the scout is right in front of you.  On a regular non vented nipple you get a large amount of gas blowing past at firing, the only thing holding the cap in place and the gas back is the hammer spring.  Since the hammer/nipple on the scout is right in line with your face you want to divert the gas to the side rather than possibly straight back.  Look at the nipple closely, the passage from the cap to where it intersects with the cross drilled vents is larger than the passage from the powder charge back to where the cross drilled vent holes are.  

That way the gas is diverted out the side instead of in your face.    In the later production scouts the front part of the nipple is shortened and doesn't  even make contact with the base of the barrel so there is an air gap.   No doubt for liability reasons but way less reliability and velocity.

Somebody said that the vents are to make the pressure the same shot to shot  no matter the powder charge but that is hogwash, if it were so an increse in powder charge would not give more velocity.


I love the scouts. To tell if you have the new style (useless) nipple is simple,  it is flat in front and the shoulder bottoms out on the barrel, the old style comes to a point and mates tightly into the taper machined into the back of the barrel.  

Mike C
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »