Rem 700 first bedding job done-fingers crossed

[bluebayou]

Talk about some adrenaline......the first time you drop your favorite barrelled action into some gooey epoxy with on a thin layer of wax to protect it.........man.  

Well, I read the instructions multiple times.  I did the recoil lug, first 2-3 inches of the chamber/barrel, and the tang.  Someone told me to see where the barrelled action balances and pick that far to bed.  Seemed a logical idea.  Thanks to whoever that was.  If I had to do it over then I would have experimented with the resin/hardener on a dummy piece of wood.  Didn't think of it until now.  

The rifle is together and I will just have to wait.

[Racepres]

IMHO, It is almost time to take the action out of the stock briefly then put it back in.... I usually leave a bit of compound on the plate and use it to judge when it is set -up enough to keep it's shape well ... then remove the action briefly and reassemble ... just seems to aid the initial removal if done when the compound is a bit green .... careful... not too green ...depends on thickness somewhat,  that's why i use the left-overs to judge by... Just $0.02 ..   MV

[gunnut69]

I agree with racepres but judging when to take it out can get interesting. Too soon and the bedding will be damaged..  A really good hint is to trim and clear the overflow, inside and out of the action before it's completely set. I use a toothbrush handle(plastic) and sharpen to an abrupt edge. trim when the epoxy is not longer tacky and before it gets too hard.  The plastic chisel will cut the overflow easily but won't damage the blue or the stock.  I too remove the barreled action before full set up but it is later than the stage at which to clear the overflow..

[bluebayou]

I backed out and retightened the screws at 8 hours like the instructions say.  At 1:30 pm (16 hours), I pulled the action out.  A small piece infront of the recoil lug chipped off (don't use duct tape, use electrical tape even if the instructions say that duct tape is okay).  Otherwise, I think that it looks pretty darn good.  The barrel part of the bedding didn't flow up the sides of the barrel, just along the bottom of the barrel.  I am kind of unsure on that anyway, so I will reevaluate it after testfiring.  Otherwise I will post some pictures if I can figure it out.

[gunnut69]

I posted my method a couple of times..do a search. I usually use a tiny string of clay across the barrel channel to restrain the beddings movement. When putting it together put some on the barrel where you want it bedded and pile the rest in a windrow down the center of the barrel channel. This forces the material to flow upwards pushing out the air and bonding with the material already on the metal. Childrens modeling clay (oil based) is used to fill and create barriers to help control where the bedding goes.  Good luck!

[bluebayou]

Oh, it is a done deal now.  As a matter of fact I read some of your old instructions.  I did dam the bedding in the barrel channel with clay.  Maybe I misspoke.  I was disappointed that the bedding didn't reach the halfway mark on the barrel channel.  I does support the first 3" like I wanted though.

[bluebayou]

There are some voids in the tang area bedding, otherwise I am satisfied with the first effort.  It was a learning experience on a gimme stock.

[gunnut69]

It looks pretty good but can't really see the voids. The recoil lug appears to be bedded tight. I'd remove some bedding in front on the inlet. It won't have any effect of the rifle and will make removing the barreled action a lot easier.. Leave enough beding to connect the recoil lug shelf with the barrel reenforce bedding.. It helps hold the recoil inlet in place. Also be certain the screw holes for the action screws don't allow the screws to contact the stock. That can really do hinky things to accuracy.. You can always add bedding by roughing up the existing material and thoroughly cleaning it with acetone. Keep the acetone of the stock finish!