Author Topic: Accuracy 223 ultra varmit fluted (Read 708 times)

Wheels · « **on:** March 23, 2006, 02:00:58 PM »

I purchased the above about 2 weeks ago, placed a bi-pod on it and a new BSA 6x18 mildot IR scope on it.

Took it to the range, yes I cleaned it first, and attempted to zero the rifle in at 100yds. After 15 rounds I became a little frustrated. I was unable to aquire a zero using bags and the bi-pod. No, Im not new to the sport, I have tried all of the basics principles and a few of the advanced techniques.
This is my first H&R rifle, do they require more break-in on the barrel than other rifles? I noticed while cleaning it that the barrel showed to have small burrs, but not many. I feel that I might need to fire more round through it to smooth it out. I have read the majority of the past post and applied the information learned. (White box walmart ammo)

I guess I'm looking for some re-assurance that these rifles are what H&R reports. Any suggestions?
Thanks Wheels
Central Oklahoma

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:14:25 PM »

Quote from: Wheels

Took it to the range, yes I cleaned it first, and attempted to zero the rifle in at 100yds. After 15 rounds I became a little frustrated. I was unable to aquire a zero using bags and the bi-pod. No, Im not new to the sport, I have tried all of the basics principles and a few of the advanced techniques.

Were you on the paper at 100yds? Group size at 100yds?? If not, you need to start at 25yds, get it to hit point of aim, them move out to 50yds and 100yds, adjusting point of impact.

If you've read much here, you'd should know that most of these rifles don't shoot well from a bipod and a front rest needs to be near the hinge, not out towards the middle of the forend.

Need more info. :wink:

Tim

Wheels · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:18:02 PM »

Had several within 1 inch, then several more within 1 inch. The only problem was the two groups were 4 inches apart.

Does the forearm problems also affect the ultru with the choat stock?

myarmor · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:25:09 PM »

With a little attention to them and the way in which one shoots them, yes they are what many here have found to be great shooters with some awesome accuracy. My 223 will do half inches with me doing my part and good ammo.
A few things that I have noticed about shooting my H&R's is that:

-They have to lock up tight and have no play in the barrel. And I mean side ways. Also no gap between the barrel and receiver.

-I don't like for my barrel to drop like a brick after I press the release button. I like to have to apply just a little force to break it open. Thus shiming behind the forarm, or even using adhesive, like JB Weld, to hold the forarm spacer tight and secure. This reasures me that everything is good and tight. Again this is my opinion.

-EDIT- yes I forgot too, the "O-Ring". I use it a homemade rubber gasket to float the forearm. All on my wood stocks. Not to mention sanding the forearms channel to make sure nothing touches my barrel. Synthetics are a little different to tune.

-I like shooting off Bi-Pods. Most of these rifles are forearm sensitive, so I had to adjust where I put my Pods at, eventually leading to the rear of my forearm:
http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=70928&highlight=trying+bipod+method

-As with any other firearm, if there are any and I mean ANY burs at the muzzle you will have issues. If your barrel has them send it back to NEF/H&R and get it worked on. They will pay for your misfortune.

-The way you shoot them is a huge part of getting the most out of your rifle. Sence they are forearm sensitive, they like being shot with the bags under the reciever. Also following through with the trigger pull and making sure that the transfer bar is fully engaged. And as always, breathing is key too. These are just a few, but I am sure you are aware of some others that are given.
But I stress doing my part. The hammer fall is slow compared to a good bolt action, so you have to adjust to it if you haven't been use to a single shot hammer fall rifle. I know I sure as he!! did :oops:

Then you have the issue of weight of trigger pull, good ammo, optics and mounts,also barrel break in period. The polishing of the bore will speed this up 10x as fast.
These are a few of my tips. I learned most from here, and the rest from excercise. You have to shoot your gun. Practice!!!
My 2 cents-Aaron

quickdtoo · « **Reply #4 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:28:00 PM »

You betcha it does, my 22-250 Ultra doesn't shoot worth beans from a bipod, but it shoots great from a good rest. I have fully floated it from the screw forward since I shot it last, need to try it again to see the out come.

Tim

Wheels · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:43:15 PM »

I appreciate both comments. It appeares to close extremely tight with no side to side play. It hard to believe it that sensative on the forend. The new ultra with the choate stock evens comes standard with the slide to adjust the bipod forward away from the stock.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:49:16 PM »

I positioned mine so the bipod was at the rear of the T-rail, but it didn't help.

Wheels · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:52:48 PM »

Well Quick, your a day ahead of me. Whats next? I would really like some accuracy out of this weapon.

myarmor · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:55:08 PM »

I don't have the Choate forarm, only the the buttstock.
Here's my 223 Ultra with my Bi-Pod adjusted to the rear:

This works well for me.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2006, 03:11:20 PM »

Quote from: Wheels

Well Quick, your a day ahead of me. Whats next? I would really like some accuracy out of this weapon.

Break it in well, mine didn't start shooting good groups until I had 60 to 80 rounds down range and that was after I spend an hour or 2 polishing the bore with flitz.

If the groups are boucing back and forth, I'd look real close at the mounting/rings/scope, that's usually indicative of a bad scope or loose mounting, but it could also be caused by inconsistent lock up. See my barrel fitting instructions in the FAQ, smoke the latch shelf to see what kind of engagement you're getting, maybe a little judicious honing is in order. I'd take a real close look at the mount tho. Did you remove the scope rail, clean it and the mounting holes and install it with thread locker?

Just some things to consider. I have many H&R/NEFs, all shoot very well to extremely well, yours can too!! :wink:

Tim

mitchell · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2006, 04:04:17 AM »

Quote from: Wheels

Had several within 1 inch, then several more within 1 inch. The only problem was the two groups were 4 inches apart.

Does the forearm problems also affect the ultru with the choat stock?

that has scope all over it. have you checked this scope on an other rifle?? also you said you could feel a few burrs and that isn't good for accurisy, so a good polish is in order.

Plinkomatic · « **Reply #11 on:** March 24, 2006, 07:53:08 AM »

You may have overtightened the scope rings.
It is also possible there is internal corruption on that scope. The only scope I ever had fail on me was a BSA, and I've had a number of cheapos (Barska, Tasco, NoName).

Such conditions sound like a combination of scope with a possible side dish of trigger mechanics and cheekweld.
I found my NEF is extra sensitive to lazyness in my cheekweld and trigger pull.
When my trigger pull is thorough (all the way back) and smooth plus I make sure my cheekweld is consistent and solid, I get amazing groups.
I had to build up the Survivor stock to get a good weld as I have high rings.