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Offline tango3065

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tru-oil
« on: March 24, 2006, 04:01:55 PM »
I have used tru oil before on laminated stocks and was happy with the results, but does anyone know if I can use it over a existing factory finish on a remington 870?
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Offline killdeer

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tru-oil
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2006, 04:47:26 PM »
No expert here but I saw a product when refinishing a walnut stock designed to remove factory coatings that have a hardener in them.
I would definitely take her down to the wood. I used a chemical stripper from wal-mart on one of my old gunstocks that stripped her clean in one application. Outdoors is the only way to go for that process. Took about 30 min. Gunnut 69 will have more info I am sure.


KD
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Offline tango3065

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tru-oil
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2006, 04:52:45 PM »
The stock is new and it looks great I just love the shine that tru oil gives and also want to protect and seal the wood.
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Offline killdeer

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tru-oil
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2006, 05:22:27 PM »
Mastinson,
wait for the Guru to show up.....  My stocks usually incur battle damage
rather quickly, sometimes before they draw blood.  :cry:
Last fall my buddy borrowed my new 700 with a laminate stock and I carried my new 700 CDL with walnut. When we met up towards the end of the hunt my buddy informed me he unknowingly let his cigarette lay against my new stock. There was a nice burn. As we were leaving I went to cross an old fence and my CDL slipped off my shoulder and slammed into and skidded on the barbed wire. :shock:  Twas a memorable hunt.
I use carnuba wax to seal my stocks.

KD
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Offline gunnut69

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tru-oil
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2006, 09:44:41 PM »
The sybthetic finish on the 870 is likely their RKW material. It's quite water proof. If you have the Express version it may well have a thin coat of what appears to be to be a lacquer, likely synthetic but a poor gunstock finish. If the heavy plastic (polyurethane) finish is present I would wax it and leave it alone. If the thin lacquer finish is what you have, re-finish. Scrape the existing finish off with a large kitchen knife blade. the poly finishes have to be loosened by heating them. I never use strippers as they always remind me of the tragedy of the Browning salt wood guns. If the finish is stripped the stock will require sanding before refinishing. If all you're looking for is to shine and protect the existing finish all that's really needed is a coat of wax and a good rubbing.. I would strongly advise against applying TruOil of either lacquer or polyurethane..
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gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline tango3065

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tru-oil
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2006, 02:46:03 PM »
Ended up taking steel wool lightly to the factory finish, I am on my 4th coat and plan on doing a couple more in the morning. I must say this express stock is looking better now than any wood stock I have, and that even includes my precious remington 700 CDl. Tru oil is great when applied in thin coats and buffing in between with steel wool.
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